Butter’s back. So are tallow, coconut oil, and the golden gloss of ghee. As the tide turns against industrial seed oils, more home cooks are embracing old-school, traditional cooking fats that nourished generations before margarine and soybean oil flooded the market—fries cooked in tallow, butter on biscuits, and even lard in pie crusts.
The return to traditional cooking fats stems from the growing debate about the health benefits and risks associated with highly refined seed oils. Often extracted with high heat and industrial solvents, these oils are high in omega-6 fatty acids, which some research suggests are inflammatory—especially when consumed in excess. Some health advocates point to the growing consumption of seed oils and the increase in chronic illness during the past several decades, prompting an interest in less processed, traditional fats. Of course, the debate rages on, and many researchers, registered dieticians, and other experts have yet to ditch their bottles of canola oil in favor of butter and lard.
Dairy Fat: Butter and Ghee
A staple in traditional kitchens across Europe, India, and Southwest Asia, dairy fat is rich in fat-soluble vitamins and flavorful, nourishing fats. Ghee—a clarified butter free of lactose and casein—offers a long shelf life and a high smoke point, making it ideal for sautéing and roasting. Butter, best used for baking or moderate-heat cooking, brings depth and richness to both sweet and savory dishes.For the best flavor and nutrition, look for grass-fed, cultured butter and ghee. A golden color signals a higher concentration of nutrients such as beta-carotene. Ghee stores well at room temperature, while butter should be kept refrigerated.
Pork Fat: Lard and Bacon Fat
Long a staple of farmhouse kitchens, pork fat lends savory depth to everything from beans to biscuits. Lard is prized for its clean flavor and ability to produce tender, flaky pastries, while bacon fat adds smoky richness to vegetables and sautés. Both are rich in monounsaturated fats, and pasture-raised lard even contains vitamin D.Look for non-hydrogenated lard and bacon from pasture-raised pigs for the best flavor and integrity. Leaf lard, which is rendered from the soft white fat around the kidneys, is particularly prized for pastries because of its clean flavor and excellent baking qualities. Similarly, opt for bacon from pasture-raised pigs for the best nutritional profile and flavor. To save bacon grease for later use, pour the hot fat through a fine-mesh strainer and into a small, lidded container.
Beef Fat: Tallow and Suet
Once a staple in British kitchens, beef tallow and suet (beef fat) were used for everything from frying fish to baking puddings and pies. Tallow, rendered from suet, excels in high-heat cooking such as deep frying. Tallow rendered from the fat around the kidneys is particularly prized for pastries and traditional steamed or baked dishes.Look for grass-fed tallow with a clean aroma. Tallow stores well at room temperature, while raw suet is best sourced directly from a local rancher and kept in the freezer.
9MOUTASEM PHOTOGRAPHY/Shutterstock
Poultry Fat: Schmaltz, Duck, and Goose Fat
Poultry fats bring deep, savory character to a wide range of dishes. Schmaltz—rendered chicken fat—adds richness to matzo balls, mashed potatoes, and even sautéed greens, while duck and goose fat can transform roasted potatoes. Poultry fat is rich in monounsaturated fat, similar to olive oil, and contains vitamin E and selenium, two potent antioxidants.Tropical Oils: Coconut and Red Palm Oil
Tropical oils such as coconut and red palm have nourished communities in Southeast Asia, the Caribbean, and West Africa for generations. Coconut oil is prized for its antimicrobial properties and heat stability, while red palm oil—distinct from industrial palm oil, which is associated with habitat destruction—is rich in beta-carotene and vitamin E.Coconut oil works well for sautéing and baking; red palm oil lends depth and color to stews and sauces. It’s particularly good for making popcorn. Look for virgin, cold-pressed coconut oil and sustainably harvested red palm oil with a rich red hue.
Olive Oil
A staple of Mediterranean cuisine for thousands of years, olive oil is beloved for its health benefits and complex flavor. Rich in monounsaturated fats and polyphenols, it supports heart health and longevity while lending grassy, fruity, or peppery notes to food.Olive oil is highly versatile and can be used for dressing salads, drizzling over cooked dishes, roasting, and gentle sautéing. Choose cold-pressed, extra-virgin olive oil in dark glass bottles and check for a recent harvest date to ensure freshness.
Nut and Seed Oils: Sesame, Flax, Pumpkin, Sunflower, Almond
Used traditionally across the globe—sesame oil in East Asia and India, others throughout Europe and the Middle East—these oils offer unique flavors and phytonutrients. Unlike modern industrial seed oils such as corn, canola, and soybean, which are typically refined using heat and chemical solvents, traditional nut and seed oils are usually cold-pressed and minimally processed. Toasted sesame oil is rich and nutty, ideal for finishing dishes, while almond, pumpkin seed, and flax oils shine in dressings and other cold applications.Due to their delicate nature, these oils should be kept away from high heat. Look for cold-pressed varieties stored in dark bottles, and refrigerate after opening to maintain freshness and flavor.
