In the early 16th century, the Duke of Mantua, Federigo Gonzaga, called upon artist Giulio Romano to create a pleasure palace for his “honest leisure,” to host receptions and welcome distinguished guests. At the time, the city of Mantua was an island set amid four lakes in central Italy. The site for the palace was on a smaller island, called Teieto, just beyond the city walls. Gonzaga wished to create a place that would be “not dwellings for men but houses for the Gods,” as art historian Vasari wrote in his “Lives of the Artists.” For Romano, this was a golden opportunity to unleash the creativity he had cultivated while working under Raphael in Rome.
The palace complex is symmetrically arranged on a central axis with two courtyards, one at the back of the other. The principal building employs the Vitruvian description of a courtyard house, where four entrances open onto the courtyard, one on each of the four sides. The two-storied square courtyard has a massive, heavy feeling thanks to the giant Doric columns and the rough-cut ashlar walls.
As one passes through the central arch dividing the two courtyards, the contrast of the rough, weightedcourtyard heightens the experience of the exquisitely ornamented Loggia of David.
This loggia is at the center of the complex and has a grand presence as it overlooks a fishpond reminiscent of a mote before a great castle. A bridge leads into the expansive Courtyard of Honor that, although now a modest lawn, was once filled with an elaborate garden of flowers and plants with a secret garden beyond. The courtyard and the complex are completed at the far end with an Esedra, a semicircular double colonnade that holds the space while offering a view into the distance.
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James Howard Smith
Author
James Howard Smith, an architectural photographer, designer, and founder of Cartio, aims to inspire an appreciation of classic architecture.