The drive alone was worth it. Our small tour group climbed aboard a coach and wound through cities and towns along the Andalusian waterfront. It was a busy, sunny morning. Joggers and bicycles frequented the boardwalks, while sailboats unmoored from the marinas and headed out to sea for pleasure cruises.
Like so many other places in this part of Spain, the architecture, culture, and overall look and feel of the cities and towns along the Costa del Sol are the direct result of layer upon layer of history, empire after empire.
There have been Phoenicians and Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, and Byzantines. And of course, hundreds of years of Moorish rule. We passed through the town of Torremolinos. “Once, this was just a poor fishing village,” the guide shared. “A lot of Hollywood stars came here in the 1950s and 1960s, and now it’s fabulous.”
But we don’t tarry in the popular beach town, which still draws scores of sun-seekers. Making a right turn, we drove up the arid mountains that parallel the shoreline. Our destination was the whitewashed village of Mijas, set almost 1,500 feet up, at the top of the switchbacks.
Coming around a corner, it all appeared as if a mirage. The main part of town is cradled in the upper reaches of the valley, with cottages and fincas climbing the side.
We took a small walking tour that included a mirador with views all the way to North Africa, and a short visit to the Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock. This tiny, cave-like chapel is built on the place where local lore says the Virgin Mary appeared in the 16th century. Our guide pointed out the many offerings left by pilgrims around the shrine inside, remarking that “She is supposed to make many miracles.”
Eating Your Way Through Spain
Ask anyone to name their favorite cuisine, and what will they say? Italian, Mexican, maybe Indian, Thai, or Chinese. It’s unlikely that many will mention Spanish dishes.But on several journeys and voyages through southern Spain, I’ve learned an important lesson. Along these Iberian coastlines, there’s a unique balance of land and sea, plus an extraordinary longevity of history and a rich mix of cultures. All of this is channeled into delicious dishes, often consumed al fresco, at a table set near lapping waves as warm, salty breezes blow gently off the water.
Paella: From Rice to Riches
A perfect example is paella. You’ll see it everywhere in the Spanish Mediterranean. But on one trip, I had the great pleasure of consuming this hearty dish in its birthplace: Valencia.Valencia is surrounded by wetlands perfect for growing rice. Around 1,000 years ago, that’s exactly what the Moors started doing.
It is not entirely clear when the people of Valencia started making paella, which takes its name from the huge dish in which it’s prepared (an item inherited from the Romans). But most agree that this hearty meal of rice, veggies, and meat originated out in the fields, perhaps in the 15th century. Farmers wanting a simple and fulfilling lunch threw together whatever they had at hand—including rice, tomatoes, onions, and some sort of protein. They often included snails, and sometimes duck or rabbit.
Today, all over Spain, paella isn’t just a staple—it is also social. Preparing it with your guests is all part of the experience. And that’s exactly what happened when my small tour group arrived at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in central Valencia.
The welcoming staff immediately poured wine and asked for volunteers. A few stepped forward, and the cooks ushered them into the kitchen and put them to work. It was fun.
One woman stirred sizzling produce, cucumbers, tomatoes, and artichoke hearts. Another dumped rice into a manhole-sized cooking paella pot, the whole thing steaming and popping and emanating a mouth-watering aroma.
Tapas in Mijas
Back in Mijas, we make a few more stops along the sloped streets—including a shop selling local honey and olive oil—before it’s finally time to eat. On today’s menu is a rather extensive selection of tapas.After we climbed a series of steps to a warm, airy patio, our servers soon placed a feast before us. We indulged immediately, filling the space with happy noises as we ate and drank and talked and laughed. I was having such a good time, I didn’t even get the names of everything on the plates.
There were hard cheeses, chicken skewers, crusty breads, Spanish omelettes, and thinly sliced meat, including jamón, Spain’s treasured cured ham. And so much more. Yes, the coach and the coast awaited us. But as long as the tapas kept coming, it felt like we could stay on that sunny patio forever.
Visiting Valencia
A city with about 2.5 million people in its metro area, Valencia is a must-see destination for true lovers of paella. It’s a bit of a journey. Many arrive on a Mediterranean cruise ship. But if you fly, your journey here will almost certainly include a connection in another European city—Amsterdam, Lisbon, Paris, Madrid, and many more have flights to VLC, the local airport.Make Albufera Natural Park your first stop. Farmers cultivated rice, the basis of paella, here for hundreds of years. And beyond the paddies and grains, there’s plenty more to do here, too, like viewing the area’s rich avian life from a traditional boat called an albuferenc.
Back in town, you can take a class to learn how to make this classic dish, perhaps at the highly recommended My First Paella. Guides will take you to the nearby Ruzafa Market to buy ingredients. After returning to their kitchen, a chef will walk you through the process of making traditional Valencia paella, probably with rabbit or chicken. And once the work is done, everyone sits down to enjoy a beautiful meal, the main paired with patatas bravas, steamed mussels, and Valencian salad.
