24 Hours in Stockholm

24 Hours in Stockholm
Stockholm's archipelago consists of over 30,000 islands. Oleksiy Mark/Shutterstock
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Royal, regal, but undeniably quirky, Sweden’s spirited capital has a lot to offer. Progenitor of both the world-renowned Nobel Prizes and campy favorite band ABBA, this Scandinavian gem offers a breadth of experiences that boggle the mind. That can make it a challenge to experience in just 24 hours. 
Especially when you consider the fact that this city of about 1 million people is actually set on an archipelago, something that surprises many first-time visitors. Spread across a total of 14 islands on the edge of the Baltic Sea, your time here will be cultural, historical—and nautical by design. The water is a fun, added element, riding little ferries to the next attraction or experience. Here’s a guide to getting the most out of a single day in this Nordic dynamo.

Arrival

Landing at Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport (ARN) feels a little like arriving at an oversized northern lodge. It’s surrounded by lakes and forest about 23 miles north of the city center. Its terminals feature lovely, blonde wood floors that are even more beautiful when illuminated by massive walls of windows that bring all that nature outside into the bustling concourses.
This is Sweden’s busiest airport and a hub for both Norwegian Air Shuttle and Scandinavian Airlines (SAS). The latter serves as the national flag-bearer for three countries—Denmark, Norway, and Sweden—and its headquarters are in Stockholm. The airport is well-connected to capitals across Europe, as well as select cities around the world—including Tokyo, Dubai, Bangkok, Istanbul, and Addis Ababa. However, if you’re flying from North America, most direct routes are seasonal, including nonstop flights from New York, Toronto, and Miami.
In a country where few things come cheap, taxi and ride-share services from ARN to the middle of Stockholm aren’t that expensive. The ride takes 30 to 45 minutes, depending on traffic and your exact destination, and costs from $30 to $60. But the Arlanda Express train is probably your best option. Their slogan: “yes, the train is faster.” And it is, as it connects the airport’s three underground stations with Stockholm Central in just 18 minutes. A one-way ticket will set you back 340 Swedish krona (a little over $30), a price that’s reduced if you’re over 65 or under 25 years of age.

Morning

Once you arrive at Central Station, head next door to Stockholm City Hall. In most places, a visit to the nucleus of municipal bureaucracy isn’t a prime tourist attraction. But this building is really rather lovely, red brick built in Sweden’s national romantic style, with an almost 350-foot-tall tower that you can ascend in the warmer months. 
But the highlight here: Nobel Prizes, usually recognized as the most distinguished and esteemed awards in the world. City Hall is where laureates in chemistry, physics, medicine, and literature collect their 24-karat gold medal (along with a significant cash reward). They do so in style. Take a guided tour to see the Blue Hall, where the Nobel Prize banquet is held. Stroll down the Golden Hall, gilded with 18 million gold mosaic tiles, where the winners and other distinguished guests dance the night away afterward. 
From there, it’s a short walk to Gamla Stan (Old Town). The quickest route takes less than 15 to 20 minutes on foot. If you’re up for a small detour, walk a little to the east and then south, crossing the three arches of Norrbro, a neoclassical stone bridge built back in 1797.
Stockholm City Hall is the venue for the Nobel Prize banquet, held annually on Dec. 10 in the Blue Hall. (Vadim Fedotov/Shutterstock)
Stockholm City Hall is the venue for the Nobel Prize banquet, held annually on Dec. 10 in the Blue Hall. Vadim Fedotov/Shutterstock
<span data-sheets-root="1">Inside Stockhokm City Hall, the Golden Hall, which is decorated with 18 million gold mosaic tiles, is the setting for the ball following the Nobel Prize banquet</span>. (Mats Wiklund/Shutterstock)
Inside Stockhokm City Hall, the Golden Hall, which is decorated with 18 million gold mosaic tiles, is the setting for the ball following the Nobel Prize banquet. Mats Wiklund/Shutterstock

You’ll quickly reach Helgeandsholmen, a small, but very important islet in the middle of Norrstrom, one of Europe’s shortest rivers. Stretch your legs on the paths in Riksplan park. Then take a moment to stroll past Riksdagshuset, Sweden’s national parliament. If you’re into policy wonk or especially interested in its constitutional monarchy system, they offer 55-minute tours of the building, free of charge. They also provide a separate, guided tour of the 4,000 works of art within, although, word to the wise—these tours are provided only in Swedish.

Gamla Stan is everything an old town should be. Dating back to the 13th century, it’s situated on the island of Stadsholmen. Though there’s still a packed schedule ahead on this one-day visit, take at least a little time to wander the winding, cobblestone streets, past graceful, well-preserved 16th- and 17th- century buildings.

After a stroll, you’ll definitely want to engage in the Swedish tradition of “fika.” Ostensibly, it’s a coffee break. But this has been a time-honored social ritual since soon after coffee arrived in the country in the 18th century. Fika is simply a rearrangement of the letters in “kaffi,” an antiquated spelling for coffee.

Now, coffee is so ingrained in the culture that employment contacts include breaks for fika as a necessary clause. Cafe Schweizer is a very good place to sit down over a steaming cup and a pastry, or perhaps apple strudel, one of their specialties. A historic spot that’s been open, operating, and hosting fika in the same location since 1920, Schweizer also offers hearty fare for hungry morning diners, including scrambled eggs and smoked salmon.

Gamla Stan is home to landmarks like the Royal Palace, Stockholm Cathedral, Nobel Prize Museum, and Stortoget, Stockholm's oldest square. (Mistervlad/Shutterstock)
Gamla Stan is home to landmarks like the Royal Palace, Stockholm Cathedral, Nobel Prize Museum, and Stortoget, Stockholm's oldest square. Mistervlad/Shutterstock
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Fika, the Swedish tradition of taking a break for coffee and pastries, is a deeply ingrained part of Stockholm‘s culture. Yoko Correia Nishimiya/Shutterstock, Jessica Guzik/Unsplash

Afternoon

We often think of Sweden as a small Nordic nation filled with mild-mannered people who produce quality Volvos and well-priced IKEA items—and, of course, very good hockey players. But Stockholm was once the heart of the Swedish empire, a great power that dominated the Baltic region and held overseas territories. They even established a colony called New Sweden in parts of modern-day New Jersey, Delaware, and Pennsylvania, although it lasted less than 20 years.
Some of that wealth and influence is still very apparent at the Royal Palace. Unlike many other European palaces, the Kungliga Slotten is still the actual family home and day-to-day workplace of a reigning dynasty, including His Majesty Carl XVI Gustaf, King of Sweden, whose role is now largely ceremonial.
Arrive in time for the changing of the guard, which happens at 12:15 p.m. or 1:15 p.m., depending on the day. Then tour one of the largest palaces in Europe, an imposing and impressive Italian Baroque architecture building with 600 rooms, 11 floors, and five museums.
The Changing of the Guard ceremony takes place daily at the Royal Palace, attracting thousands of tourists. (ArtMediaFactory/Shutterstock)
The Changing of the Guard ceremony takes place daily at the Royal Palace, attracting thousands of tourists. ArtMediaFactory/Shutterstock
You could spend an entire week inside, and never see everything. But because of the busy afternoon and evening ahead, limit your visit to the highlights, perhaps using their app to navigate. These include the royal apartments, the Hall of State, and Queen Kristina’s silver throne.
Finally, it’s now time for a ride on a ferry. Honestly, walking to the Vasa Museum is probably easier. Just over half an hour on foot will get you there. But it’s more fun to make your way down to Slussen, near the famous namesake locks that link Lake Malaren with the Baltic Sea. Then hop on ferry line number 82. The ride over, through calm internal waterways, is like a very inexpensive boat tour. 
The Vasa Museum houses the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628. (Bumble Dee/Shutterstock)
The Vasa Museum houses the Vasa, a 17th-century warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628. Bumble Dee/Shutterstock
There’s no place on earth quite like the Vasa Museum. Commissioned by King Gustavus Adolphus as part of his war with Poland-Lithuania, the Vasa, a regal warship bristling with bronze cannons, made her maiden voyage in 1628. Poorly designed with a cannon deck that was far too heavy, and constructed in a rush, she sailed a few hundred yards, then promptly sank in Stockholm Harbor.
Miraculously, the brackish waters of the Harbor preserved the three-masted, 225-foot wooden vessel. And 333 years later, in 1961, the grand vessel was salvaged and eventually housed in this namesake museum, now one of the most-visited museums in Scandinavia. The ship remains 98 percent original. I like to stroll the elevated walkways that surround the ship and just try to picture it, back when the Vasa was the pride—then the folly—of the Swedish Empire. 
The Fjäderholmarna Islands, just 30 minutes from Stockholm, are a popular day-trip destination. (Micke Andersson/Getty Images)
The Fjäderholmarna Islands, just 30 minutes from Stockholm, are a popular day-trip destination. Micke Andersson/Getty Images
You won’t need to walk far to find another icon, one of a very different sort. ABBA The Museum is less than 10 minutes away on foot, along pleasant waterside paths. This famed four-person pop group stepped onto the world stage in 1974 when their song, “Waterloo,” became the first Swedish winner at the Eurovision Song Contest. 
Now their ultra-catchy songs inspire even the worst dancers (like me) to get up and (attempt to) bop a bit. Tunes including “Mamma Mia” and “Dancing Queen” have formed the basis for both uber-successful Hollywood movies and Broadway shows. This museum showcases their concert costumes, instruments, gold records and other cool memorabilia, including the actual helicopter photographed for one of their album covers. The galleries also give you a chance to record your own version of their hits. You can even get up on stage and dance along with the silhouettes of band members.
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The ABBA Museum pays tribute to Sweden‘s most famous pop group with karaoke booths, a dance floor, and ABBA memorabilia. Icelander, dotmiller1986/Shutterstock

Evening

This has been a very full day—which is the perfect excuse to enjoy a chill evening. SoFo is an excellent place to wind down. A taxi or Uber is probably the easiest option in this case—depending on traffic, it’s about a 15- to 20-minute drive from the ABBA Museum. But a combination of walking plus bus, or ferry, or tunnelbana (metro) will also get you there.
Located on the island of Sodermalm, which is home to many creative types, the neighborhood of SoFo means “South of Folkungagatan.” There’s obvious similarities to Soho in London and New York. It’s funky, cool, and laid-back; the walkable blocks are lined with often-incredibly esoteric boutiques.
Stockholm's "SoFo" district is similar to New York’s SoHo, reflecting its artsy, youthful vibe. (JJFarq/Shutterstock)
Stockholm's "SoFo" district is similar to New York’s SoHo, reflecting its artsy, youthful vibe. JJFarq/Shutterstock
You’ll find vintage shops as well as clothing and jewelry and music stores, and lots more. On one visit, I checked out a shop that invented and produced their own board games. Another, a sneaker boutique had a secret, speakeasy-style room showcasing expensive kicks for serious collectors.
Wander, shop, and discover. Then, eat. All the eclectic influences of SoFo come together at Nytorget Square, which is lined with bars and restaurants (many with outdoor patios in the warmer months). Bar Agrikultur is a local favorite, with its cozy atmosphere and focus on seasonal Swedish ingredients. Listed as a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant, reservations can be tricky and should be made well in advance. But you might get lucky—they always reserve a few spots for walk-ins. 
Then, the night is yours. Stockholm has a surprisingly lively jazz scene. If you still have the energy, head back up to Gamla Stan and walk into Stampen, a legendary venue since the 1960s, where everyone from Eartha Kitt to Dizzy Gillespie has graced the stage. Order a drink. Settle in. And let the music provide a fitting, final soundtrack to your memories from a packed and fabulous day in Sweden’s buzzing capital.
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