Take advantage of a certain “weedy” patch that is already ripe for opportunity or a fallow area that is hard to “maintain.” Some wild or semi-wild things already grow there: dandelions, chickweed, or even common milkweed. My friend who lives in a suburb told me she wanted a wildish area, but her husband doesn’t like things that look unkempt, so she was nervous about having an area that looked “out of control.”
She settled on an area of about 15 square feet, tucked off to the side of the main yard. A portion of an existing vegetable raised bed or other ornamental garden bed would also easily work.
Starting small allows for adjustments. At this early stage, the plot has every potential—or maybe no potential—so you don’t want to create something too permanent until you see how things shape up. I usually test things out first because plants will thrive where they want to be, with a little bit of nudging.
It’s a good idea to mark off the area because, if you are like me, one or more of the following may happen:
- Over the winter, I forget where it is and it ends up permanently lost.
- Unless I am always on weed patrol, other family members may trample all over it, or friends may take their dog for a walk through it.
- Whoever is doing the mowing or weed-whacking cuts it down so that it is uniform with the surrounding area.
Enclosing a Wild(ish) Patch
This project will yield one enclosure for a 9-foot (2.74 meter) long by 11-foot (3.35 meter) wide patch.Materials
- For the length: 2 to 4 branches or sapling trunks, 9 feet long and at least 2 inches diameter
- For the width: 2 to 4 branches or sapling trunks, 11 feet long and at least 2 inches diameter
- 24 steel rebar pins, 18 inches long and 3/4 inch (1.9 centimeter) diameter, with pointed ends
- Hammer or mallet
Position six pins diagonally opposite each other so there are three pins on each side of the first trunk, driving them into the ground with a mallet so that they hug the trunk in place. Leave approximately 24 inches between pins. If a pin hits a rock or root, move the pin a little to the left or right. This method is extremely forgiving. Repeat with the remaining pins on the other three trunks.
Stack the second four saplings on top of the lower set of trunks, adjusting the pins if necessary to hold the stack in place and so that the saplings do not roll out.
Start with a minimum of two sapling trunks stacked on each side and then continue to stack over time or as you find more woody material.
Excerpted with permission from “Into the Weeds“ by Tama Matsuoka Wong, published by Hardie Grant Publishing, March 2024, RRP $32.50 Hardcover.