A Perfect Salad for the Cold, Dark Days of Winter

The greens are hearty and the meatballs are filling. JeanMarie Brownson/TCA

Meatballs please almost everyone. Perhaps it’s their concentrated flavor, maybe it’s the pleasantly soft yet toothsome texture, or perhaps it’s their versatility.

I like to keep a stash of suitable ground meats in the freezer for just about any meatball occasion. There’s ground venison for a company-coming-over version with pasta. Then there’s beef for the granddaughters to enjoy with “dip,” aka pasta sauce. Ground turkey turns into lighter yet flavorful fare with fresh herbs and garlic.

Of course, all of the above meatball flavors shine when tucked into a crusty French roll for an amazing sandwich. Relatively new is the concept of a warm, golden brown meatball as a salad topping. Hey, if the greens are hearty, such as a combination of romaine and radicchio, it works beautifully—a perfect salad for the cold, dark days of winter.

To speed meatball prep, purchase freshly ground meats from the local market. Or, to control fat and texture, grind your own. For an even grind, cut the meat into 1-inch cubes. Freeze the cubes just long enough to firm them a bit. Then grind, a few cubes at a time, in a meat grinder or with the metal blade in a food processor with on/off turns until as coarsely or finely chopped as you like.

Take a tip from the pros and season the ground meat 30 minutes or so before shaping and cooking. This allows the flavors to thoroughly blend into the meat. Then, fry a tablespoon of the seasoned meat in a small skillet until cooked through. Taste it and then adjust the seasonings in the remaining meat mixture accordingly.

Tips for the best meatballs:

1. Select the best meat you can afford, but don’t go too lean; for beef choose 15 percent or higher fat content. For turkey, choose a combination of thigh and breast meat.

2. Don’t overpower the flavor of the meat with too many add-ins.

3. Don’t dilute the meat’s flavor and texture with too much filler, such as bread or cracker crumbs; add just enough to help the meatballs hold their shape during cooking.

4. Mix the flavoring add-ins well before adding the meat. Then blend lightly—overworking the meat can toughen the finished meatballs.

5. Refrigerate the uncooked meat mixture for 30 minutes to meld flavors.

6. Properly brown the exterior for flavor and texture.

7. Fully cook meatballs before simmering them in sauce or gravy.

8. Reheat meatballs gently to prevent toughness.

Smoky Beefy Meatballs

Makes 12

Note: Serve these beauties atop a pile of cooked egg noodles or alongside roasted potatoes. They’re dynamite tucked in a hard roll for a hearty meatball sub; slather the roll with chipotle mayonnaise if desired.

• 1 cup crumbled soft white bread
• 1/4 cup milk
• 1 egg
• 4 green onions, finely chopped, about 1/2 cup
• 2 large cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh or dried parsley
• 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika or 1/2 teaspoon chipotle powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon each: freshly ground black pepper, ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 2 pounds ground beef chuck, bison, venison, or turkey, or a combination

1. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with a silicon pad or parchment paper. Soak the bread in the milk in a large bowl for a few minutes to soften the bread. Stir in the egg, onions, garlic, parsley, paprikas, salt, pepper, cumin, and thyme. Mix thoroughly. Add meat. Use clean hands to lightly mix all ingredients.

2. Use your hands to divide mixture into 12 even portions, then roll each into a ball. Place on prepared baking sheet leaving room between each. Refrigerate 20 minutes or up to several hours.

3. Heat oven to 375 degrees F on the convection setting or 400 degrees on the conventional setting. Put meatballs into the center of the oven. Bake, using tongs to turn meatballs over once, until nicely browned, about 25 minutes. Let sit 5 minutes before serving.

Meatball Salad With Radicchio

Serves 2 main courses

• 2 small heads baby romaine or 4 cups baby arugula
• 1/2 head radicchio
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon each: salt, freshly ground black pepper
• 6 Smoky beefy meatballs, see recipe, warmed through
• 1 cup quartered small tomatoes or chopped roasted red bell pepper
• Shredded Parmesan, for serving
• Chopped fresh chives or parsley, for serving

1. Tear large leaves of romaine into large pieces. Leave small inner leaves whole. Tear radicchio into large pieces and mix with romaine in a large bowl. Refrigerate covered with a damp towel until serving time.

2. Mix oil, vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well. Leave at room temperature for up to a couple of hours.

3. Just before serving, toss lettuces with dressing. Place half of the mixture on each plate or in a wide shallow bowl. Top each with three warm meatballs and half of the tomatoes. Sprinkle with Parmesan and chopped chives. Serve.

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