For millions of years, worms have been nature’s recyclers, consuming decaying organic matter and leaving behind nutrient- and mineral-rich castings (worm poop). They also act as tiny rototillers, breaking up compacted soil so air, water, and plant roots can circulate more freely.
Compost Champs
Not all worms make good vermicompost worms; this includes the common red earthworms that are probably already in the garden and aren’t commonly used for composting because of their slow maturation and reproductive rates. The top choices for worm farming are red wigglers (aka redworms, manure, branding, trout, or tiger worms), African nightcrawlers, European nightcrawlers, and Indian or Malaysian blue worms. All are epigeic, which means they live near the top of the soil, where fresh organic compost matter is placed.Red wigglers are far and away the most popular for several good reasons. They can eat up to half their weight in a day and break it down into high-quality castings faster than other worm types. They’re hearty and can live happily in a wide range of temperatures, from 55 to 90 degrees F. They are a moderate size, which is good for smaller vermicompost systems and the squeamish. Since they are more common, they are also less expensive.
African nightcrawlers and European nightcrawlers are other good choices for beginners. They both have an enormous appetite, which results in a great number of castings. They grow and reproduce fast, maturing in as little as one month. African nightcrawlers, however, require a higher, and sometimes difficult to maintain, temperature range of 75 to 90 degrees. And they are on the large side for compost worms, growing up to 12 inches long, which may be daunting to some. European nightcrawlers, which grow up to 14 inches, prefer temperatures in the 60- to 70-degree range but can survive heat up to 90 degrees.
Indian or Malaysian blue worms are slightly thinner and longer than red wigglers and have similarly voracious appetites. They reproduce and mature incredibly fast, with blue worm cocoons appearing in the first week. They’re hearty down to a chilly 45 degrees, but are known to escape the compost bin due to barometric changes, thunderstorms, or for no reason at all.
Home Sweet Home
One of the simplest ways to get started is to use an inexpensive, new, unused cat litter tray. Be sure it doesn’t have an anti-bacterial coating, which could harm valuable soil microbes. Add a piece of cardboard (or wood or plastic if you’re setting it up outdoors) as a loose lid that allows ventilation yet keeps out light. Fill it with worm bedding: dampened, shredded, black ink-only newspaper, cardboard, peat moss, coconut coir, hay, straw, or, better yet, aged compost if you have it.
Top it with a few kitchen scraps, but don’t overfill; more can be added tomorrow if needed. Go slowly until familiar with the worm’s eating habits. Add more newspaper, unbleached coffee filters, used coffee grounds (in moderation), and other dietary fibers periodically to balance the fruits and veggies.
A large plastic storage tote with a lid will work equally well, but be sure to drill holes above the bedding level for air circulation if the bin is deep. Don’t add holes to the bottom; when kept at a proper moisture level, drainage is not needed, and the worms will use the bottom holes to escape.
Worm bedding and the resulting vermicompost should be kept moist at all times at the consistency of a wrung-out sponge. Dry bedding will suffocate the worms, while excess moisture will lead to mud and odors. If you notice the worms making a break for it en masse, check the bin’s pH with an inexpensive hydrometer. It should remain between 6.0 and 7.0.
The Menu
Worm favorites include banana peels, apple cores, pear cores, peaches, apricots, strawberries, watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew, and tomatoes (but only in moderation since they are slightly acidic). Slice leftovers up into tiny pieces. Worms don’t have teeth or jaws, so they suck in and swallow food particles using their muscular pharynx, and break them down further using digestive enzymes.Avoid fruits with a high citric acid content, such as oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit, and pineapple, that will send the worms scurrying to the other side of their container. Do not give them meat, dairy, fatty, salty, spicy, or oily foods either; these foods are difficult for worms to digest, disrupt the balance of the worm bin, and can attract fruit flies and other pests. Insecticides and pesticides on fruit skin and preservatives are two hidden dangers that can kill worms.
