Try This Indulgent Main Course for Your Holiday Menu

Beef tenderloin’s mild flavor and rich tenderness merit its holiday superstar status. JeanMarie Brownson/TNS

I count my blessings all year long, but especially during the holiday season. We are a family of excellent cooks who enjoy the process and happily contribute to a meal. Their contributions grant me the time and budget to make an indulgent main course.

This year, beef tenderloin will grace our Christmas dinner table. Two condiment-style sauces, inspired by our travels to Spain, will accompany the main dish.

Beef tenderloin’s mild flavor and rich tenderness merit its holiday superstar status. When there are plenty of side dishes, plan to serve about 1/3 pound per average eater. For big meat eaters, or for leftovers (cold beef sandwiches taste terrific), opt for 1/2 to 2/3 pound per guest.

Beef tenderloin cooks much more quickly than a standing rib roast or turkey; no matter the size, it’s usually cooked to medium-rare in less than 40 minutes. Organize the rest of the meal, open the wine, and make sure guests have arrived before sliding the roast into the hot oven. While the meat cooks, finish making any side dishes and slice the bread.

When investing in expensive cuts of meat, it’s a good idea to invest in an instant-read thermometer to help judge doneness. The thermometer earns its keep every time—just be sure not to leave it in the oven or on the grill—it’s not meant for that kind of heat. Instead, insert it in the thickest portion of the meat; let it register the temperature (a matter of seconds), then remove the thermometer.

Large cuts of meat, such as the tenderloin, should be removed from the oven a few degrees before they reach their ideal doneness temperature. While the roast rests on the cutting board, the temperature will rise a few degrees. This is especially important to remember when you prefer rare to medium-rare meat.

As for the accompanying sauces, traditional aioli is made from fresh eggs and oil, like a homemade mayonnaise. To save time and be cautious about food safety, bottled mayonnaise stands in for eggs and oil. A bit of plain yogurt keeps the sauces from being too rich. Make one or make both to accompany the beef.

The menu that follows serves six to eight guests with a modest portion of beef. Serve a hearty endive salad with a lemon vinaigrette as a first course while the meat rests on the cutting board.

A Holiday Dinner Menu

Radicchio and endive salad with lemon vinaigrette

Roast beef tenderloin with two kinds of aioli (see recipe)

Roasted potatoes with herbs (see recipe)

Skinny green beans (or asparagus) with butter and chives

Mashed butternut or rutabaga with butter and black pepper

French bread or dinner rolls

Red wine, sparkling apple cider

Holiday cookies and peppermint ice cream

Roast Beef Tenderloin With 2 Kinds of Aioli

Makes 6 to 8 servings

• Saffron garlic aioli (recipe follows)
• Green chile aioli (recipe follows)
• 1 1/2 tablespoons coarse (kosher) salt
• 1 tablespoon freshly cracked black pepper
• 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 trimmed beef tenderloin (trimmed before weighing), about 4 pounds
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as a combination of parsley, cilantro, and chives

Make saffron garlic aioli and green chile aioli up to two days in advance. Refrigerate covered. Serve at room temperature.

Mix salt, pepper, paprikas, and garlic powder in a small bowl. Store in a jar for up to several days.

Use kitchen string to tie the tenderloin in several places into a compact shape. This allows the meat to cook more evenly. Place beef in a shallow roasting pan. Sprinkle salt mixture all over tenderloin. Refrigerate covered up to one day; let meat rest 30 minutes at room temperature before cooking.

Heat oven to 425 F on convection setting or 450 F on conventional setting. Drizzle oil over beef. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 130 F for medium-rare, about 30 minutes, or 140 F for medium doneness, 35 to 40 minutes.

Remove roast from oven and transfer to cutting board; cover meat loosely with aluminum foil. Let stand 10 minutes; temperature will rise a few degrees.

To serve, slice the tenderloin into thick slices. Arrange on a warm platter. Be sure to pour any juices over the slices. Garnish with chopped herbs. Pass the aioli sauces to serve alongside.

Saffron Garlic Aioli With Lemon

Makes about 1 cup

• 2/3 cup mayonnaise
• 1/3 cup plain yogurt
• 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon rind
• 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
• A couple of pinches of saffron threads (or 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric)
• Salt to taste

Put mayonnaise, yogurt, and garlic into a small blender jar (or use an immersion blender). Process until smooth. Add lemon juice, lemon rind, paprika, and saffron. Blend smooth. Add salt to taste. Refrigerate covered up to two days. Use at room temperature.

Green Chile Aioli

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

• 1 small poblano chile pepper
• 1 clove garlic, halved
• 2/3 cup mayonnaise
• 1/3 cup plain yogurt
• 2 tablespoons fresh parsley or cilantro leaves
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cumin
• Salt to taste

Set poblano over a gas burner on medium. Cook, turning with tongs, until skin is charred and blistered on all sides, about 10 minutes. Let cool. (Alternatively, place pepper on a baking sheet and roast in a 400 F oven, turning often, until charred and soft, about 15 minutes.)

When the pepper is cool enough to handle, peel off the charred skin, remove the stem and seeds. Rinse.

Tear the pepper into pieces and drop into a blender along with the garlic. Add remaining ingredients. Process until smooth. Taste for seasonings. Refrigerate covered up to two days. Use at room temperature.

Roasted New Potatoes With Herbs

Makes 6 servings

• 2 pounds small yellow potatoes (B-size), scrubbed, quartered
• Salt
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon each salt, freshly ground black pepper, garlic powder
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as a combination of parsley, cilantro, and chives

Put potatoes into a large saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Add 1 teaspoon salt to the water. Heat to a boil. Cook, stirring once or twice, until potatoes are almost fork-tender, about 10 minutes. Drain well. (Refrigerate covered up to one day.)

Heat oven to 425 F. Put potatoes onto a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil and toss to coat well. Sprinkle generously with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Roast, turning occasionally, until deeply golden, 20 to 25 minutes.

Serve right away sprinkled with herbs.

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