This Meatless Dish Featuring Halloumi ‘Fries’ Is Full of Flavor

Cut into thick sticks, halloumi “fries” add a lean protein element to salads. JeanMarie Brownson/TNS

Warm cheese deserves all the love. From the pull of mozzarella on pizza to molten cheese fondue to the buttery goodness of queso fundido piled on a tortilla, few foods prove more satisfying. Light it on fire at one of Chicago’s iconic Greek restaurants, and everyone thrills.

Grilled halloumi cheese first came on our radar a few years ago in London. There, we dined on a warm and satisfying meatless grilled halloumi wrap at a stand in the multicultural Borough Market. Halloumi, a fresh white cheese from Cyprus made from goat’s and sheep’s milks, sports a lovely milky-salty flavor. The firm, low-fat cheese has a high melting point, perfect for grilling and frying, as it sears but doesn’t really melt. When hot, halloumi has a pleasing, bouncy texture.

In recent years, the imported cheese has gained in popularity in the United States. Domestic halloumi and cow’s milk versions often are available as well. Look for halloumi in supermarkets with a large cheese section or in Mediterranean grocery stores. Substitutes include Mexican-style queso panela and Indian paneer cheese, as these warm easily without really melting.

Cut into thick sticks, halloumi “fries” add a lean protein element to salads and as an accompaniment to bowls of soup. Served warm or at room temperature, they satisfy mightily with a dip such as yogurt-based tzatziki or as a snack with a piece of fruit.

For a meatless dinner, serve this hearty chickpea and tomato dish topped with dollops of spicy Middle Eastern zhoug sauce and a pile of crispy halloumi fries. Be sure to serve slices of crusty bread to mop up all the delicious pan juices.

Crispy Halloumi Fries

Serves 4 to 6

• 1 block (8 to 10 ounces) halloumi cheese, queso panela, or paneer cheese
• Vegetable oil for high-heat cooking, such as expeller-pressed canola, safflower, or sunflower oil
• Tzatziki sauce, for dipping, optional
• Hot red pepper sauce, optional

Pat the cheese dry. Cut into 1/2-inch thick slices. Cut the slices into 1/2-inch sticks. Pat dry again.

Heat oven to 200 F. Have a paper towel-lined baking sheet ready.

Pour oil into a medium-size nonstick skillet to a 1/8-inch depth. Heat over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add a few halloumi cheese sticks at a time and fry, turning regularly, until golden all over, 1 or 2 minutes (don’t walk away, as cheese cooks quickly). Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Keep warm in the oven. Fry the remaining cheese sticks. Enjoy while warm with tzatziki or a few drops of hot sauce.

Chickpeas With Tomatoes and Crispy Halloumi Fries

Choose spicy zhoug sauce, made from herbs, lemon, garlic, and hot chiles, or mild and creamy tzatziki sauce, for finishing the final dish. Look for both sauces in the refrigerated section of Trader Joe’s or other specialty grocery stores.

Serves 4 to 6

• 4 skinny carrots, (about 12 ounces total), peeled, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
• 1 small red onion, chopped
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon each ground cinnamon, turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon each cayenne, black pepper
• Pinch or two of saffron threads, optional
• 1 can (29 ounces) chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans), drained, rinsed
• 2 cups (8 ounces) grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
• Crispy halloumi fries (see recipe)
• About 4 cups fresh baby spinach (about 1/2 of a 6-ounce)
• 1/4 to 1/2 cup refrigerated spicy zhoug sauce or tzatziki sauce
• Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

Heat oven to 400 F. Put carrots, onion, and 2 tablespoons of the oil onto a large baking sheet. Roast, stirring often, until nearly tender, about 15 minutes.

In a small dish, mix remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the vinegar, salt, cinnamon, turmeric, cayenne, pepper, and saffron until salt is dissolved. Stir mixture into carrots. Stir in chickpeas and tomatoes.

Roast, stirring every 5 minutes, until tomatoes are soft and golden, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, make the crispy halloumi fries.

Stir spinach into the hot chickpea mixture to wilt it slightly. Pile mixture into shallow serving bowls. Top with pan juices. Top with crispy halloumi fries. Garnish with dollops of zhoug sauce and cilantro.

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