When I took a teaching job in Italy years ago, I learned right quick to eat long, wonderful, late-night dinners that left one happy—but sometimes uncomfortably full. Fortunately, the Italians have a cure: amaro (plural is “amari”), meaning “bitter.”
These digestives, which were originally wine-based but are now often made with neutral spirits, bring together a couple dozen or more regional herbal ingredients—secret recipes!—with varying degrees of bitterness and a sweetening counterbalance. Every region or even town seems to have its own favorite. They bring quick relief from a big meal—something to think about with Thanksgiving coming up.
While the most popular brands include Amaro Montenegro, Amaro Averna, and Amaro Nonino, here are several alternative recommendations that stand out.
Vecchio Amaro del Capo. Courtesy of Haus Alpenz
Vecchio Amaro del Capo
This hails from where I first learned to love amaro: Calabria. A family distillery first founded in Sicily more than a century ago later expanded the operation to Calabria. The Fratelli Caffo distillery—named for the Caffo brothers—is now operated by the third- and fourth-generation father and son. Distilled from the sugar of beets, the amber elixir offers the true taste of the southern region of Italy, pulling together 29 spices, herbs, roots, and flowers with notes of juniper, licorice, cloves, bitter orange, and chamomile. Serve ice cold from the freezer.
Amaro Sfumato Rabarbaro. Courtesy of Haus Alpenz
Amaro Sfumato Rabarbaro
You could be forgiven for thinking “sfumato” indicates smoked, “fumo” in Italian—and indeed, a distinct smokiness sets this apart from other amari. But instead, it means “nuanced” and refers to an art style that faded shades and colors into each other, a nice indication of this amaro’s balance. The central ingredient is a variety of rhubarb. The bitterness of alpine herbs is perfectly balanced with the sweetness of berries, and the smoke is not overdone.
Pasubio Vino Amaro. Courtesy of Haus Alpenz
Pasubio Vino Amaro
This is an example of an amaro still made with a wine base: a vino amaro. Produced amid the Dolomite Mountains in northern Italy, it brings the flavors of mountain blueberries and a hint of smoke. The wine base makes it seem almost vermouth-like at first sip, but it settles into the herbs and resinous, mountain mugo pinecones in the finish. Serve slightly chilled.
Elisir Novasalus. Courtesy of Haus Alpenz
Elisir Novasalus
A product of Antica Erboristeria Cappelletti near Trento, in the mountainous region of northeast Italy, this vino amaro is a bit more aggressive with its bitterness. Based on a dry Marsala—a fortified Sicilian wine—and a unique Sicilian tree sap, the six-month process blends in plants native to the high Alps. Some may prefer this blended with sweeter drinks or chased with a sparkling wine, but the locals drink it as it is. The wine gives way to a long, bitter finish.
Cocchi Dopo Teatro Vermouth Amaro. Courtesy of Haus Alpenz
Cocchi Dopo Teatro Vermouth Amaro
Cocchi is a classic vermouth from Torino, perfect in a Manhattan cocktail. This amaro takes that vermouth base and adds a light bitterness with, among other things, gentian and chiretta flowers. The name, “after theater,” recommends it for a late-night sip; it is refreshing over ice or mixed with bold whiskeys.
Amaro Alta Verde. Courtesy of Haus Alpenz
Amaro Alta Verde
Unlike the darker amber and brown colors of the other amari, this one comes through light and green. The central ingredient is a variety of wormwood (similar to that which gives absinthe its green color), and its formula brings a bold bitterness tempered by a bit of citrus.
Cardamaro Vino Amaro. Courtesy of Haus Alpenz
