Soup for the Soul, Just in Time for Those Cold, Dark Nights

Hearty soups, which nearly double as stews, satisfy most cold weather hankerings. JeanMarie Brownson/TNS

A good friend of mine brought me a kettle of mushroom barley soup when I was confined to bed rest with my first child. The act of thoughtfulness nourishes me still.

This is the perfect time of year to pay it forward with kindness. Containers of homemade goodies such as soups and stews find a warm welcome at the homes of neighbors, friends, and relatives. Package your offerings in moderately sized containers suitable for freezing. Be sure to label everything, including any allergen information that folks may need to know. It’s helpful to include heating instructions and garnish suggestions on the label, too.

Hearty soups, which nearly double as stews, satisfy most cold-weather hankerings. I’m drawn to recipes that contain both a protein and a whole grain—such as beef or lamb for flavor and barley or farro for hunger slaking.

I love the nutty flavor and velvety texture that barley gives to soups. Among whole grains, barley is one of the best sources of fiber; it is also a rich source of B vitamins. Look for hulled barley, which is minimally processed to remove only the outer hull, leaving the bran and germ intact. Pearled barley has neither the hull nor the bran, making it cook more quickly but somewhat less nutritious.

Note that barley does contain gluten. You can substitute brown rice in the recipe that follows; cooking time will be about the same. Other gluten-free options include faster-cooking quinoa and sorghum.

For the richest soups, start with a broth or stock made from bones, which isn’t fancy cooking, just time-consuming. Luckily, many local butchers and meat markets carry an array of homemade broths in the freezer case. Alternatively, jarred broth concentrates offer good flavor in no time and are a far better solution than salty bouillon cubes and boxed broth (with which you pay for water and packaging).

Often, mushrooms simmer alongside the barley in this style of soup. I prefer to roast assorted mushrooms at high heat to caramelize them a bit for added flavor. Roasting also gives the mushrooms a bouncy texture, rather than a mushy texture from a brothy simmer. Use these golden mushrooms as a garnish for soup, folded into scrambled eggs, layered in a grilled cheese sandwich, or as a topping for baked potatoes and pasta.

Serve the soup garnished with something green and richly flavored, such as chopped fresh cilantro, basil, or arugula leaves. Whole-grain sliced bread or crispy croutons finish a cheerful, cold-weather meal.

Beef and Barley Soup With Roasted Mushrooms

Note: This soup freezes well. Lamb stew meat tastes great here too.

Makes 6 servings

• 1 to 1 1/4 pounds boneless beef chuck roast, cut into 1-inch pieces
• Salt, freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil for high-heat cooking
• 3 or 4 large shallots, diced (or 1 small white onion)
• 1 large leek, split lengthwise, well-rinsed, thinly sliced
• 3 medium-size carrots, peeled, sliced into 1/4-inch thick rounds
• 1/4 cup dry red wine or sherry
• 1 quart (32 ounces) low-sodium beef broth or beef stock
• 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced fire-roasted tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 cup uncooked medium barley (not pearl barley)
• Garlicky roasted mushrooms, see recipe
• Large croutons, for serving
• Chopped fresh cilantro, basil, or baby arugula, for garnish

Season the beef pieces with salt and freshly ground pepper. Heat vegetable oil in the bottom of a large Dutch oven. Add seasoned beef pieces in a single, uncrowded layer. Cook, turning occasionally, until browned. Remove to a plate as the pieces brown, and continue until all the beef is browned.

Add shallots, leek, and carrots to the pan drippings. Cook and stir about 5 minutes. Stir in wine and scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the browned beef, broth, tomatoes, paprika, thyme, and 2 cups water. Cover the pan with the lid slightly askew. Simmer, partly covered, stirring often, until beef is tender, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Stir in barley and simmer until beef is fall-apart tender and barley is soft, about 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve soup topped with roasted mushrooms, croutons, and cilantro.

Garlicky Roasted Mushrooms

Use an assortment of cremini, button, and oyster mushrooms here. Add shiitake for texture and flavor, but be sure to remove their tough stems.

Makes about 2 cups

• 1 pound assorted mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1/4 teaspoon each: salt, freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• Chopped fresh herbs, optional

Heat oven to 450 F. Slice mushrooms into 1/3-inch thick slices. Place on a large rimmed baking sheet. Add olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper, and thyme. Toss to coat everything nicely.

Spread mushrooms out in a single layer. Roast in oven, stirring once or twice, until tender and golden at the edges, 12 to 15 minutes. Finish with fresh herbs, if using.

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