Shredded Brussels Sprouts and Oven-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes Are the Stars of This Winter Salad

The key to a good main-course salad is the combination of crunch, softness, tanginess, sweetness, and umami. JeanMarie Brownson/TCA

Brussels sprouts just may be the vegetable that staves off the winter blues. Embrace these green orbs whenever possible, especially when roasted, fried, or sauteed. Steer clear of the smelly boiled heads of the past—overcooking them brings out excessive bitter flavors.

One of my favorite Brussels sprouts recipes is to saute shredded sprouts in bacon drippings with a little garlic until crisp. Then, I stir in a little chicken broth or heavy cream to moisten them so they cook up tender. Season with salt and serve warm as a side to roast chicken or pork.

Three out of four of us ordered the raw shredded Brussels sprouts salad at a recent dinner out. We marveled at the crunch from this diminutive member of the cabbage family. It is a great contrast to the tender lettuces of summer with much less bitterness than kale.

The salad that follows takes inspiration from that neighborhood restaurant. Their inventive salad finds tiny roasted tomatoes tucked among the shreds. Even winter tomatoes taste richly tomatoey when oven-roasted. Like little pops of candy, double the recipe and enjoy the tomatoes as a warm side to roast poultry and fish.

The key to a good main-course salad is the combination of crunch, softness, tanginess, sweetness, and umami. Freshness from herbs always proves welcome. Add in protein, in the form of cooked animal protein, firm tofu, canned beans, nuts, and/or cheese to boost nutrition.

Homemade dressings support the effort—they always taste fresher, and the cook moderates the salt and sweetness levels to suit the salad. In the cabernet vinaigrette that follows, just a little agave syrup mitigates any bitterness.

Precut shredded Brussels sprouts can sometimes be found in the refrigerated case of large produce sections. To shred your own, first trim the bottoms of the sprouts. Then, use the thinnest blade of a mandolin or the thinnest slicing blade (4 millimeter) of a food processor. If slicing by hand, cut off a thin slice so the little orbs lay flat. Then use a thin-bladed, very sharp knife to cut the sprouts crosswise into very thin slices. Fluff the slices in a large bowl to separate them a bit.

If you start with whole Brussels sprouts, peel off several outer leaves from each head and roast them with a little oil and salt until crunchy. Sprinkle over the salad at the last minute.

Serve the salad with warm bread, such as store-bought naan, or thick slices of crusty French bread. Cornbread or corn muffins certainly complement this hearty salad.

Winter Salad

Pre-shredded Brussels sprouts can substitute for the whole ones; you’ll need about 12 ounces. Substitute croutons or broken pita chips for the crispy leaves. Two cups of diced extra-firm tofu can be enjoyed here instead of the chicken.

Makes 4 main-course servings

• Oven-roasted cherry tomatoes (see recipe)
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup cabernet vinaigrette, see recipe, OR bottled balsamic vinaigrette
• About 24 (1 1/4 pounds total) medium-size Brussels sprouts
• 1 tablespoon expeller-pressed canola oil or safflower oil
• Salt
• 1 cup frozen sweet corn kernels, thawed
• 1/3 cup dried cranberries or raisins
• 3 to 4 loosely packed cups of shredded cooked chicken, steak, shrimp, or salmon (8 to 12 ounces total)
• 1/2 cup (2 ounces) salted, shelled pistachio nuts
• 1/2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
• 1 avocado, halved, pitted, diced
• Chopped fresh cilantro

Make oven-roasted cherry tomatoes. Make vinaigrette.

Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Pull outer leaves off the largest Brussels sprouts to make 3 loosely packed cups of leaves. Place on a rimmed baking sheet. Add oil and toss to coat all the leaves. Sprinkle with salt. Roast, stirring often, until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Very thinly slice the remaining Brussels sprouts using a 4-millimeter slicing blade on a food processor or handheld mandolin or with a very sharp, thin-bladed slicing knife. You should have about 6 loosely packed cups, weighing 12 ounces. (Sprouts can be prepared and refrigerated, covered, for up to two days.)

Shortly before serving, toss the shredded Brussels sprouts with 1 teaspoon of the salt and let stand in a colander for 10 to 15 minutes. Shake occasionally over the sink.

Transfer sprouts, corn, and cranberries to a large bowl. Toss with a couple of tablespoons of the vinaigrette to moisten everything. Add chicken, nuts, and cheese. Toss again with a little more vinaigrette. Add half of the tomatoes and some of their accumulated liquid and toss again.

Arrange salad on a serving platter. Top with avocado and cilantro. Garnish with the leaves of crispy Brussels sprouts. Serve right away.

Oven-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes

Makes about 2 cups

• 2 pints cherry or grape tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 325 degrees F. Pierce tomatoes with the tip of a small knife. Place on a rimmed baking sheet with remaining ingredients. Mix well.

Bake, stirring once or twice, until tomatoes are softened and juices concentrated, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a covered dish with all of the pan juices. Use at room temperature or refrigerate covered up to several days.

Cabernet Vinaigrette With Shallot

Makes about 2/3 cup

• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 2 tablespoons red wine, such as cabernet or 1 more tablespoon vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon agave syrup
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot, red onion, or green onion

Put everything except shallot in a small jar with a tight-fitting lid. Shake well to mix. Put chopped shallot into a fine mesh strainer and rinse well under cool water. Shake dry and add to the jar. Refrigerate covered up to two days. Use at room temperature.

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