Salted Capers Are the Hallmark of Pesto Pantesco

Pantelleria's little-known pesto is defined by what grows on the isle's hot, rocky landscape. Beth Fuller/TCA

Pantelleria is an island off the coast of Sicily, and pesto pantesco is the island’s version of Italy’s iconic mashed sauce. It’s made by pulverizing locally grown staples such as tomatoes, garlic, basil and/or parsley, almonds, and, most notably, capers with olive oil until the mixture is coarsely pureed.

Salted capers are the hallmark of pesto pantesco. Including a generous three tablespoons (rinsed thoroughly of undissolved salt lest it potentially over-season the sauce) added unique funky, meaty depth and nuanced pepperiness.

Blitzing the almonds in the food processor ahead of the other ingredients ensured that they broke down into evenly sized bits. Pulsing in the tomatoes, herbs, capers, and garlic broke them down without pureeing them, and streaming in the olive oil helped the sauce emulsify. Adding the pesto to the pasta in two stages helped it distribute evenly.

Pesto Pantesco With Spaghetti

Serves 4 to 6

• 2/3 cup slivered almonds, toasted
• 1 1/4 pounds tomatoes, cored and quartered
• 3/4 cup fresh basil leaves
• 1/2 cup fresh parsley leaves
• 3 tablespoons salted capers, rinsed well
• 1 garlic clove, peeled
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt plus salt for cooking pasta
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 pound spaghetti

Bring 4 quarts water to boil in a large pot. While water is coming to boil, pulse almonds in a food processor until most pieces are no bigger than 1/4 inch, 8 to 10 pulses. Add tomatoes, basil, parsley, capers, garlic, salt, and pepper flakes, and pulse until cohesive mixture forms, 8 to 10 pulses. Scrape down sides of bowl. With processor running, slowly add oil in steady steam until emulsified, 15 to 20 seconds. Transfer half of pesto to large serving bowl.

Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve 1/4 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and transfer to bowl with pesto. Top with remaining pesto and toss until well combined, taking care not to leave pesto at bottom of bowl. Adjust consistency with reserved cooking water as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time. Season with salt to taste, and serve immediately.

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