I was immediately captivated by the unusual, yet luxurious setting at this restaurant, a recreation of 17th century Japanese farmhouse. Robatayaki, meaning grill, originated in Japan’s Miyagi Prefecture. The original mode of service and eating had diners sitting around an open hearth at counter stools, while chefs sat on a deck, with only the grill as a divider between them and the carefully selected and displayed produce, fish, and meats arranged on a counter.
Here in New York, once inside the venue, a few more steps through a minute garden lead into the adjacent room, transporting one into yet another part of Japan—into one of Kyoto’s old merchant houses known as Matchya. They used to serve a dual purpose: The front of the house is used for business and the remainder is the living quarters. Wooden booths line the edges of the room. Bamboo-and-trompe l’oeil wallpaper featuring windows and bamboo give the illusion of overlooking a neighbor’s garden.
Surrounded by such eye-pleasing scenery, the menu is also memorable: a fare of traditional Japanese cuisines, with only one or two fusion offerings. The chefs prepare cold and warm appetizers, fried and simmered dishes, rice and noodles, and, of course, the main attraction: the grilled foods, robatayaki. This selection, bursting with the ingredients’ natural flavors, uses only imported Noto Sea Salt, fresh sudachi, redolent of sharp citrus and acidic flavor, and fresh wasabi.
Service in this vibrant atmosphere is warm and friendly. A seemingly endless selection of sake is available.
The mouth-watering, kaiseki-style menu selections were served with pride. Fortunately, my friend, an expert on Asian cuisine, accompanied me. We first sampled the Cheese Platter ($8), with a presentation and array of flavors beyond anyone’s imagination: Camembert with pickled daikon radish, wrapped cream cheese with kombu seaweed and Mozzarella with chunky moromi miso was a true revelation. The contrasts of flavors and textures, especially the Camembert with the slightly sour and crunchy radish topped it all. Dairy products are not traditional Japanese fare, but this is one nod to the venue’s fusion cuisine.
Another surprising taste experience was the Chawan Mushi ($6), served with chicken meatballs, shrimp, mochi shitake mushrooms, and mitsuba leaf. The dish requires perfect timing and execution. Gelatin gives it a thicker consistency, while the egg was perfectly cooked. This multilayered dish takes one’s taste buds on a roller coaster ride with every bite.
We had Washu-Gyu ($11) from the grill menu: Australian-origin-Kobe-style beef skewers with freshly ground wasabi and a house-made dipping sauce. The flavors of the buttery, tender beef, melting in your mouth, with natural beef juices and fresh wasabi were perfectly balanced. I noticed a touch of spiciness in contrast to the buttery taste of the beef.
A platter of grilled vegetables followed, comprised of ginseng, tasting vaguely like walnuts; chewy eryngi mushrooms; hot chili peppers; Brussels sprouts and turnips; and only sea salt used for seasoning. This offering makes a memorable complement to the grilled dishes.
All the dishes can be shared, making the restaurant a favorite place for a group of friends and family. We shared two fish flown in from Japan, Kodai ($28), strongly sea-flavored red snapper with fresh ground radish and Tanago ($23). Both were naturally grilled with only a touch of Noto Sea Salt, but the tanago was a bit milder and sweeter than the snapper.
The House Special, Miso Soup ($5) is prepared with Japanese yam, nameko mushrooms, soybeans, and barley miso—a typical dish from Nagasaki, Japan. The in-house prepared miso, made from either edamame (baby soybeans) or barley, is mixed with yeast (koji) and salt. Different yeasts make for different flavors. The soybeans or barley are soaked for few days and then mashed into a paste. The miso at the bottom of the soup was in chunks and had a more delicate taste than miso in other places I have tried and was without an aftertaste.
Organic duck paddy-field rice is yet another revelation. This rice growing method is only about ten years old. Roaming ducks are used to clean the rice fields. The birds eat the worms and flies. Even the color of the rice was shiny and brighter than most rice I have seen. The cooked grain arrived in a natural stone pot. Each grain stood on its own, with a natural aroma that I have never experienced.
What would a memorable meal be without dessert? Try the Hojicha Pudding ($5), made from roasted green tea. Roasted green tea has a pleasant, lingering aroma and flavor. The Black Sesame Warabimochi ($5) is made with black sesame mochi. I can never have enough! The dessert is covered with a kinako (soybean flour) that sat inside a banana leaf. It is served with brown sugar syrup and ground peanuts. The mochi, which is steamed rice pounded into a sticky paste, was like jelly—smooth tasting, airy, and clean.
Matcha Shiruko ($6) is a chestnut-filled rice cake served in green tea and white bean paste broth, with additional flecks or ground chestnuts, to give the whole dish a subtle sweetness.
231 E. Ninth St., New York, N.Y.212-979-9672
Closed Mondays
Brunch: Saturday and Sunday: Noon to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Tuesday through Sunday: 6:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
