An old-school French confection, pâte de fruits, has seen a big revival in the past couple of years among chefs and home bakers as they try to make the most of fresh seasonal fruits.
These tiny parcels have a concentrated fruit flavor and a delectably soft jelly texture, all coated in sugar. They are such a fun project to make, especially at the peak of raspberry season.
Pâtes de fruits are made with a firm fruit paste cut into tiny cubes and rolled in sugar. They are most popular around Christmas, enjoyed at the end of a festive meal or offered as a gift in pretty boxes.
The sweet treats can be made with virtually any fruit: Tropical varieties such as mango, kiwi, and papaya are popular in the winter, while stone fruits and berries—especially raspberry—are preferred in the summer.
Whether you’re interested in learning the art of French confectionery or just looking for ways to preserve seasonal fruits, it’s a great recipe to add to your repertoire.
The Pectin
The making of pâtes de fruits is very similar to making jam—cooking fruit purée, sugar, and pectin until thick. But while some jams can be made using solely fruit, it’s virtually impossible to avoid additional pectin when making pâtes de fruits. Pectin is a required thickening agent, since the fruit paste needs to set firmly enough to become sliceable.Pectin can be found either in liquid or powdered form. To form a jam, a jelly, or a “pâte,” pectin needs to be mixed with sugar and acid (e.g., lemon juice) and brought to a boiling temperature to later set.
Get Out the Kitchen Scale
Since fruits already have varying amounts of natural pectin and sugar in them, the amount of pectin and sugar for making a pâte de fruit will vary depending on the fruit you are using. And while jams allow some flexibility, it’s very important to stick to precise measurements here.For raspberry pâtes de fruits, I found the right ratio is 500 grams of sugar and 30 grams of pectin for every 500 grams of raspberries. This ratio yields soft, melt-in-your-mouth pâtes—slightly softer than store-bought ones—that are still firm enough to be sliced neatly.
For other fruits containing less or more pectin, sugar, and water in them, this ratio needs to be adjusted; it’s recommended to refer to recipes tailored for each fruit.
Tips for Success
While pâtes de fruits require a short list of ingredients and are easy to make, there are a few tricks to ensure you will be successful.Choose seasonal raspberries on the riper side, but not soft. Know that the riper the fruit, the sweeter the pâtes will taste. However, the raspberries shouldn’t be soft, or they will taste off.
Don’t walk away. When cooking the pâtes de fruit, you should watch the temperature closely, rather than the time. The mixture should cook until it reaches the correct temperature, and not a minute more. If you let the pot simmer for too long, the sugar will start to caramelize, resulting in an overpowering taste, the pectin will start to break, and the final pâte will be rubbery.
Use a candy thermometer. This will make this recipe easier, especially if you’re a first-time pâtes de fruits maker. We need to reach 223 degrees F, and you’ll know for certain that the pâte will set.
Raspberry Pâtes de Fruits
When in season, using fresh, ripe raspberries is best. But if they are not in season, you can use frozen ones—make sure you defrost them well. Once cooked, the pâtes de fruits need to set for at least 5 hours, so plan accordingly if you want to serve them to guests at the end of a meal. While store-bought pâtes de fruits can last for weeks, the homemade version keep their firm texture for about 5 days before starting to soften significantly.- 500 grams raspberries
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- 2 1/2 cups (500 grams) caster sugar, plus 1/3 cup extra for rolling
- 30 grams powdered pectin
Blend the raspberries into a purée. Although optional, you can pass the purée through a fine mesh to discard the seeds.
In a large pot over medium heat, mix the raspberry puree, lemon juice, sugar, and pectin. Bring to a slow boil, whisking occasionally. When the mixture becomes too thick for a whisk, switch to a wooden spoon. Continue boiling until the mixture reaches 223 degrees F. At this point, the mixture should have a thick, viscous texture. Once the mixture has reached the right temperature, don’t let it cook any longer or it will end up rubbery.
Immediately pour the mixture into the prepared sheet pan. Let it cool to room temperature, for at least 5 hours. The pâte should be firm and sliceable.
Sprinkle a cutting board with a thin layer of sugar. Flip the pâte onto the board and peel off the film. Sprinkle the top with a thin layer of sugar and slice into small squares.
Prepare a small shallow plate with extra sugar and roll each square into the sugar.
Store remaining pâtes de fruits in an airtight container for up to 5 days.