During winter, there’s nothing better than foods from the Basque Country to bring sunshine and heat to the kitchen. This region, which straddles the line between southern France and northern Spain, embraces both countries’ influences for a cuisine that is always vivacious and colorful.
This Basque-style risotto, known as riz gaxuxa (pronounced gachoocha) is a quintessential dish from the region. With creamy rice, bell peppers, smoky chorizo sausage, chicken, pancetta, and eggs, it’s a wholesome, one-pot recipe that is brightened with piment d'Espelette, the famous local pepper, for a fiery kick. It’s a vibrant mix of flavors reminiscent of Spanish paella—simpler, but just as delicious.
Riz gaxuxa finds its roots in peasant mountain cooking—with “gaxuxa” literally translating to “poor” in the Basque language. The cooking style from the mountainous inland Basque Country makes do with fresh and cured meats, grains, and vegetables. On the other hand, coastal Basque cuisine is filled with fish and seafood.
Basque cuisine embraces local, fresh ingredients, and this recipe is no exception to the rule. So for those of us outside of Basque Country, here are a few tips to choose your ingredients wisely and recreate riz gaxuxa’s authentic flavors in your own kitchen.
The Chorizo
There are different types of chorizos, including Spanish, Mexican, and Portuguese varieties. For this recipe, make sure you opt for Spanish chorizo, which is almost always cured, while Mexican chorizo is usually fresh and requires cooking.Some chorizos are finely ground and have a smoother texture, and others have a coarser grind, providing a chunkier texture. Chorizo can also vary in spiciness. If you prefer milder sausage, look for chorizo labeled as “mild” or “sweet.” If you enjoy heat, opt for chorizo labeled as “spicy” or “hot.”
Whether you prefer a sausage with a smooth or coarse grind, mild or spicy, make sure you choose a good-quality chorizo that isn’t full of red coloring. Reading the ingredients will give you this information.
The Ventrèche
Traditionally, riz gaxuxa includes ventrèche, a type of lightly cured pork belly that is commonly used in southern French cooking, especially in Basque Country and Gascony. As an easier-to-find substitute, I like using Italian pancetta, which somewhat recreates the smoky, salty flavors of ventrèche.The Peppers
For making this recipe approachable and family-friendly, bell peppers are my vegetable of choice in this recipe. Other riz gaxuxa recipes can call for piquillo peppers, a variety of chile pepper native to northern Spain. They are small to medium-sized mild peppers that are usually bright red in color and have a distinct triangular shape with a blunt end. They are much sweeter than bell peppers and will have a more pronounced taste in the dish. I like both options—take your pick!
After the harvest, Espelette peppers are strung into brilliant red garlands and hung to dry outside homes and shops throughout the summer. TatkaZ/Shutterstock
The Espelette Pepper
The Espelette, a traditional pepper grown in the region, is a hallmark of Basque cooking and a pride and joy of the Basque people. Only a small sprinkle imparts a unique flavor to any recipe.This pepper bears an AOC label (appellation d'origine contrôlée), meaning its production can be carried out only in a defined geographical area: in and around the French commune of Espelette. After the harvest, the peppers are strung into brilliant red garlands and hung to dry outside homes and shops throughout the summer, giving Basque villages part of their unique charm.
Espelette pepper is generally considered to have a mild heat level. It is milder than cayenne pepper but still imparts a noticeable warmth to dishes. But unlike some hotter chile peppers, Espelette pepper has a sweet and fruity undertone, with a touch of smokiness too.
It’s usually sold in dried, powdered form and can be found outside of France in specialty stores or online. Beyond this dish, Espelette pepper can be a wonderful substitute for traditional chile powders or paprika in recipes, so I highly recommend you grab it if you ever spot it.
Espelette peppers are usually sold in a dry powdered form. AventuraSur.photo/Shutterstock
Riz Gaxuxa
When making riz gaxuxa, make sure you do not rinse the rice; you want to keep the starch around the rice to create the creamiest texture possible once cooked. Also, take the time to toast the rice slightly in the pan before adding the chicken broth. This helps the rice absorb the liquids more evenly.When adding the broth little by little, allow the liquid to be absorbed before adding the next ladle. This gradual process helps release the starches and creates a creamy texture. Remember that making a risotto requires attention: Stirring the rice regularly helps release starch and creates the desired creaminess. So stay close to the stove and enjoy the process!
As a substitute for 1 teaspoon of Espelette pepper, you can use 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika plus 1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, to create this distinctive mix of spicy, sweet, and smoky flavor.
You can end the meal with a slice of traditional Basque cake for a complete Basque dining experience.
Serves 4
- 2 large onions
- 2 garlic cloves
- 1 red bell pepper
- 1 green bell pepper
- 1 (5 1/2- to 7-ounce) chorizo sausage
- 5 ounces (150 grams) Italian pancetta
- 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts
- 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 1/2 cups long-grain white rice (do not rinse)
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon Espelette pepper (or substitute—see notes above)
- 4 cups chicken stock, ideally low-sodium
- 2 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled
- Salt to taste
Cook the onions and garlic, then add chicken, chorizo, and pancetta until sizzling and fragrant. Audrey Le Goff
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until translucent and slightly golden. Add the chicken pieces and cook, stirring occasionally, for 7 to 8 minutes, until cooked on the outside. Stir in the chorizo and pancetta and cook for 5 minutes, until sizzling and fragrant.
Stir in the bell peppers and cook for 2 to 3 minutes until slightly translucent. Audrey Le Goff
Stir in the bell peppers and cook for 2 to 3 minutes until slightly translucent.
Stir in the rice, black pepper, and Espelette pepper. Audrey Le Goff
Toast the rice for 3 to 4 minutes, just until it becomes translucent. Audrey Le Goff
Stir in the rice, black pepper, and Espelette pepper. Toast the rice for 3 to 4 minutes, just until it becomes translucent.
Add chicken stock a little bit at a time, waiting for it to be fully absorbed between additions. Audrey Le Goff
Pour in half of the chicken stock (2 cups); it should cover all the rice. Cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to make sure the rice doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan, until the liquid is almost fully absorbed. Add the remaining stock a little at a time, stirring occasionally, waiting until the liquid in the pan is just about fully absorbed before adding the next ladle. Continue until the rice is fully cooked and the liquid is almost all absorbed (not completely, but almost).
Crumble the hard-boiled eggs with the back of a fork and stir them into the rice. Audrey Le Goff
Crumble the hard-boiled eggs with the back of a fork and stir them into the rice. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes more, until all the liquid is absorbed.
Season to taste with salt and more pepper if needed, and serve immediately.
