Puerto Rico: Tropical Rainforests, Wildlife, and the Art of Doing Nothing

El Yunque is a popular destination for hiking, with trails ranging from easy to challenging, leading to waterfalls, scenic overlooks, and ancient petroglyphs. (Courtesy of US Forest Service)

On vacation I’m always torn: Run and go see everything? Or chill and do absolutely nothing? This was my first trip to Puerto Rico, and I found an ideal balance of both. My resort was just a 30-minute pre-booked ride from the San Juan airport, but what got my attention was that it had its own nature preserve. In no time, I checked in and reclined poolside, where a server slipped a freshly opened chilled coconut into my hand. Stamped into the side of it was the resort’s mantra: “Doing Nothing Means Everything.” I like their thinking.

The Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve Puerto Rico is nestled inside 70 acres of protected natural space along a peninsula. About 100 feet offshore lies a protective reef. I see the waves break over it in the distance, while the water in between is quite calm thanks to this natural break wall. The rest of the beaches on the island are at the whims of the waves. Tranquil waters are not a bad thing for travelers with children. Those using the resort’s kayaks and SUPs appreciate the calmer waters. I snorkel a bit and lounge a lot, but I’m always eager to go see the wildlife—and Puerto Rico has plenty nearby.

The Hyatt Regency is located on the Arial Peninsula. (Courtesy Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve)

National Tropical Rainforest

El Yunque National Forest is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. national public lands system. At 29,000 acres, it’s one of the smaller parks, but is still more diverse because it contains dense forest covering part of the Sierra de Luquillo, a small mountain range. A guide from SALTours (Sea, Air and Land) picks me up from the resort, and in half an hour we were winding along the road through four habitats, Tabonuco Forest, Palo Colorado Forest, Sierra Palm Forest, and the uppermost Dwarf Forest, with short, low-lying trees adapted to the thin soil and cloud mists.

They don’t call this a rainforest for nothing: Midway up the mountain, the heavens open and a deluge begins. Bring rain gear; even if it’s sunny 15 minutes away at the hotel, it can be cloudbursting up here. I soak my shoes as I hop out of the van to nab a shot of the 85-foot La Coca waterfall. Right down the road stands Yokahú Tower, providing a sweeping view of forest and sea, but only once the clouds part. Not 20 minutes later, the rain passes, and I’m at the visitor center learning about the flora and fauna, especially the coqui, the less-than-thimble-sized tree frog that has become a beloved symbol of the island. They can be heard singing like birds in the evenings here and at the resort. The adult male is less than an inch and a half long and it has no webbing between its fingers. If you don’t see one on a tree, you’ll definitely see them on T-shirts and in gift shops.

El Yunque National Forest encompasses nearly 29,000 acres, making it one of the smallest National Forests but also one of the most biologically diverse. (Courtesy of US Forest Service)

El Yunque receives an average of 120 to 240 inches of rain annually at higher elevations, creating a lush and vibrant ecosystem. (Courtesy of US Forest Service)

El Yunque is a popular destination for hiking, with trails ranging from easy to challenging, leading to waterfalls, scenic overlooks, and ancient petroglyphs. (Courtesy of US Forest Service)

The forest offers hikes of varying difficulty. The trail from the visitor center is packed gravel and follows an easy turn through the rainforest, lined with wild ginger, bird of paradise flowers, and towering trees, and featuring a symphony of bird song and frog calls. Butterflies flutter into the light and disappear; tiny gecko-sized lizards scoot for cover or cling to tree trunks, watching me pass. Even under overcast skies, the Puerto Rican Emerald hummingbirds flash like gleaming gems as they flit from flower to flower even in the parking lot.

The island is home to a number of endemic bird species. Residing in the center is one of the rarest. The Puerto Rican parrot has been practically wiped out, and only a few survived in captivity while conservationists made efforts to bring them back into the wild. That work continues today. Though there’s been progress, it’s slow. Consult a local birding guide if you’re coming for the feathered friends.

The elevated walkway at El Portal Visitor Center allows visitors to explore the forest canopy and experience the rainforest from a different perspective. (Courtesy El Portal de El Yunque Visitor Center)

A short, wheelchair-accessible interpretive trail winds through the lower forest level at El Portal Visitor Center. (Courtesy El Portal de El Yunque Visitor Center)

Local Food

“Beer as cold as your ex-girlfr/end’s heart” the sign read. They’ve run out of i’s and swapped in a slash for it. Designed to amuse and make you stop, it worked. It’s an open-air bar along the sidewalk, and one of the patrons was inadvertently the second step of their marketing plan: She leaned over a fresh pineapple with a straw and whip cream rising out of it. This was Kiosk No. 35, El Arrecife, where each drink takes as long to prepare as you might imagine it would to carefully cut off the top and core a fresh pineapple, slice the flesh, insert toothpicks to mount those slices and some cherries around the rim, whip up a piña colada in a blender and pour it in, and then smother the whole thing with whipped cream, sprinkles, and a gummy bear. It’s delicious, and you can’t help but drink it fast. I thought they considered calling 911 when I stood stock-still with my face scrunched up from a brain freeze that lasted several minutes. Awkward, but worth it.

El Arrecife is one of about 40 kiosks 10 minutes from the entrance to the National Forest. These family-run food stands, bars, and small restaurants stand shoulder to shoulder like a defensive wall in soccer. Their backs are to Luquillo Beach, a fine place for a swim or picnic. It’s also one of four Blue Flag beaches on the island, which are honored for strict environmental, educational, safety, and accessibility standards.

This area is the ultimate place to discover what the locals eat. They serve a wide variety of foods from seafood and soups to burgers and fried plantains (tostones), and deli counters display sandwiches, breads, and pastries; Puerto Rican “tacos,” which look more like elongated deep-fried empanadas with meat or seafood fillings. Mofongo—fried then mashed green plantains with garlic, salt, broth, and oil (everyone’s mother’s is the best)—appears at a few stands, either plain or “filled” with various meats or seafood. Cocktails abound. Remember, this is the land of rum: Bacardi and Don Q hail from here (though my taxi driver pointed out Bacardi was founded first in Cuba, so Don Q—named for Don Quixote—was nearer and dearer to him as was Ron del Barrilito, founded in 1880). Save room in your luggage.

Steps From the Room

I took a morning stroll on the beach. The tide was out and I could walk along the sand beyond the shore-saving rocks and mermaid’s hair. A parallel trail passed through the thick foliage and the tiny lizards dashed away for cover as I passed. I arrived at Coco Beach, and for the moment, I had it all to myself. So I did as the local lizards do: perched on a rock in the sun and soaked it all in.

The immaculate Grand Reserve Golf Course features seashore paspalum grass, white silica sand bunkers, and water hazards. (Courtesy Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve)

Golfers of all skill levels can play right on the beachfront. (Courtesy Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve)

Golfers will appreciate The Grand Reserve Golf Course, designed by Tom Kite. It’s one of only two championship courses in the Caribbean. If you prefer to swing clubs in air-con, opt for the Topgolf Swing Suite at the hotel. Virtual zombie dodgeball is also an option. Tennis and pickleball players have their own courts, but I booked a spa appointment to work the kinks out of me, and I took advantage of the sauna there. At night I could go for fine dining in the steakhouse or the entertainment of the teppanyaki grill (never a dull moment; always a delicious one). Sushi, local fare, or a food cart by the pool—plenty of variety if you choose not to leave the hotel.

The Rainforest Spa incorporates elements of the surrounding rainforest, providing a unique and immersive spa experience. (Courtesy Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve)

The spa provides specialized treatments such as facials, body wraps, and exfoliating scrubs. (Courtesy Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve)

The resort features a lagoon-style pool, the largest in Puerto Rico, complete with whirlpools, a swim-up bar, and chaise lounges. (Kevin Revolinski)

The list of things I chose not to do is long. A dedicated tour desk could get you on a catamaran cruise to a nearby island for more snorkeling and a beach barbecue. A short drive away are zip lining, ATV or horseback riding, outlet shopping, river and waterfall swimming, and an evening kayak tour of the closest of Puerto Rico’s three magical bio bays, where bioluminescent plankton light up the water as you stir them with your paddle.

But that night I stayed close to home and enjoyed a Caribbean sunset with a prepared picnic in a little backpack with plates and utensils, a small bottle of Chardonnay or the resort’s own PRadise Bliss, a lager made with local fruit by a local craft brewer.

I took the hotel’s Do Nothing advice to heart the next day. The central pool of the property’s four pools is the largest lagoon-style pool in Puerto Rico and includes a swim-up bar. But I’m staying in the Villas de Reserva section with larger suites and its own dedicated pool and bar. Frozen coquitos—not the little frogs but the traditional island rum and coconut cocktail—go down easy and I’m back into that zen mode. Even better, I reserve a hammock and softly swing myself into oblivion beneath the palm trees right at the edge of the sea. Maybe I’ll take a tour of Old San Juan tomorrow. Maybe I won’t.

Doing Nothing Means Everything cocktails from the Hyatt. (Courtesy Hyatt Regency Grand Reserve)

If You Go:

The great thing about Puerto Rico? It’s the Caribbean and you feel as if you’ve entered a foreign country with a rich culture and delicious foods. But this is also part of the United States, so you don’t need a passport to enter, you don’t need to change money and calculate conversions, and while you will hear Spanish spoken everywhere, most people also speak English. Pack for sun and sand, but consider resort formal for nice restaurants and proper footwear and rain gear if you’re heading to the rainforest.