A cook can rest easy when the pantry and the refrigerator contain ingredients for a pot full of homemade soup. Dried mushrooms, thick-skinned squash, and refrigerated spice purees facilitate many variations of a hearty, warm soup perfect for cold weather.
For a satisfying creamy vegan soup, simmer dried black or shiitake mushrooms with a few standard vegetables, a piece of ginger, and an optional piece of seaweed for a deeply-flavored soup starter. Then add chunks of butternut squash and a squeeze of ginger or lemongrass puree, and cook until the squash is fall-apart tender. An immersion blender renders it all into velvety goodness.
Mushroom stock adds the umami satisfaction of a meat or poultry-based broth without the animal component. You also can use packaged mushroom broth, such as the one from Pacific Foods, or the concentrated mushroom base from Better Than Bouillon. Hold off on adding salt until you’ve tasted the soup.
As for that difficult-to-cut-up butternut squash, you have options. Of course, you can (carefully) tackle the squash with a large knife and cutting board. Pre-diced cubes of butternut squash, sold in the refrigerated section of the produce department, remove the hassle. Use this pre-cut vegetable within a day or so of purchasing to avoid spoilage. Cubes of frozen diced butternut are a standard freezer staple in my house—buy several bags—you’ll find many uses for this convenient item.
When time allows, whirl together a fresh condiment from roasted poblano, cilantro, and mint. A swirl of the puree enhances the soup with a refreshing green brightness. The condiment can be made a day or two in advance and kept tightly covered in the refrigerator.
The soup reheats well. If desired, add a few tablespoons of coconut cream or heavy whipping cream for a luxurious soup.
Mushroom-Ginger Stock
Makes 2 quarts- 18 dried shiitake mushroom caps, about 1 ounce OR 10 dried black mushroom caps
- 1/2 small onion, diced
- 1 carrot, trimmed, diced
- 1 rib celery, trimmed, diced
- 2 slices, 1/4-inch-thick fresh ginger
- 1 small piece kombu seaweed, optional
Reduce heat to low and simmer, party covered, stirring often, 45 to 60 minutes. Strain well.
Butternut Soup with Roasted Poblano-Mint Condiment
Makes 6 servings- 1 large onion, diced
- 2 medium carrots, trimmed, chopped
- 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 or 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 8 cups diced fresh butternut squash OR 2 bags (16 ounces each) frozen butternut squash
- 1 quart mushroom broth
- 2 poblano peppers
- 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves or 2 teaspoons dried mint
- 1 1/4 teaspoons salt
- 2 tablespoons refrigerated ginger puree or lemongrass puree OR a combination
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
- Crisp croutons, for garnish
Stir in broth. Heat to boil; reduce heat to simmer. Cook, stirring often, until squash is very tender, about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, for roasted poblano-mint condiment, heat broiler. Put poblanos onto a baking sheet and set under broiler. Broil, turning often, until skins blister and blacken, about 10 minutes. Cool, then core and rinse off peel and seeds. Puree the roasted peppers with the 1/3 cup of remaining oil, cilantro, and mint until smooth. Season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt.
Puree soup with an immersion blender (or in small batches in a loosely covered blender) until smooth. Return to saucepan. Season soup with ginger puree, pepper, and remaining 3/4 teaspoon salt.
Serve soup in warm bowls with a generous swirl of the poblano-mint condiment. Top with croutons.
