How Do I Love Tomatoes? Let Me Count the Ways

Tomatoes are the most versatile ingredient. JeanMarie Brownson/TNS

Vine-ripened, in-season tomatoes, ready to burst from their skins, may be the best food in the world. And the most versatile. Think thick slices on burgers, deep-red pasta sauces, rich stews, hot and cold soups, relishes, and more worldwide. Then there is the much-loved Italian Caprese salad of tomato slices layered with fresh mozzarella and basil, Spain’s refreshing gazpachos, Mexico’s spicy salsas, the simple salads of Greece, and the crispy galettes of France. We love them all.

I eat dozens of perfectly ripe and juicy tomatoes over the kitchen sink, in the garden, and in the car on the way home from farmers markets.

My breakfast tomatoes find themselves piled onto buttered toast with a sprinkling of fresh herbs. Thin tomato wedges in a turkey roll-up make a terrific lunch. Super juicy tomatoes melt beautifully into a dinnertime risotto or a quick curry sauce for grilled fish. Cherry tomatoes go hand-in-hand with snacking and charcuterie boards for the cocktail hour. Canning a few jars of tomato jam and pickled tomatoes keeps us in the red well past the season.

A jar of gazpacho in the refrigerator cools off even the warmest summer evenings. Our 2024 version pairs the rich tomato soup base with a briny olive relish.

Many gazpacho recipes use a chunk of bread to thicken the mixture. I prefer to add a can of tomatoes to keep the soup gluten-free and deeply tomatoey in flavor. Be sure to read the labels and avoid canned tomatoes that contain ingredients that interfere with ripe tomato flavor, such as citric acid and calcium chloride. San Marzano tomatoes from Italy typically do not contain these ingredients.

Make the base a day or two in advance to meld the flavors and chill it thoroughly. The olive relish lasts a week or more, so doubling the recipe proves a good idea.

Serve gazpacho with crusty bread and olive oil. When it’s cool enough to heat the oven, warm, crusty garlic bread, slathered with butter, fresh garlic, and smoked paprika, makes a perfect partner to anything tomatoey.

Tomatoes, cheese, and bread can be combined in countless ways. Try warm toast with melty cheese and slices of tomato. Fresh greens and herbs add flavor and more fresh summer goodness.

Gazpacho With Olive Relish

Makes about 9 cups, serving 6

• 1 can (28 ounces) peeled San Marzano tomatoes
• 1/2 cup water or vegetable broth
• 2 pounds totally ripe, round red tomatoes, stemmed
• 1/2 roasted red bell pepper, peeled, seeded (rinse well if using bottled), coarsely chopped
• 2 small slices red onion
• 1/2 seedless cucumber, peeled, coarsely chopped
• 1 cloves garlic, halved
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, or to taste
• 1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 1 teaspoon salt

For the Olive Relish

• 1/2 cup olive salad or muffuletta olive mixture
• 1/4 cup diced pitted Kalamata olives
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped red onion, well rinsed
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or basil or a combination

Pour canned tomatoes into a blender. Swirl the water or broth into the can to capture all the tomatoes and add the liquid to the blender. Process until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl.

Cut tomatoes crosswise in half; shake out some of the seeds. Coarsely chop tomatoes; you should have 4 generous cups.

Working in batches, puree tomatoes, red pepper, onion, cucumber, and garlic in a food processor or blender. Process until totally smooth. Add to bowl with pureed canned tomatoes.

Season the mixture with olive oil, vinegar, and salt. Refrigerate covered until very cold, at least two hours or up to two days. Taste and adjust seasonings.

For olive relish, mix all ingredients in a small bowl. Refrigerate covered up to a week. Use at room temperature.

Ladle the gazpacho into serving bowls. Top with a spoonful of olive relish and a swirl of olive oil.

Fried Halloumi and Tomato Toast

Halloumi cheese warms beautifully without melting into a puddle. Substitutes for it include feta, queso panela, and paneer cheese.

Serves 2

• 2 thick slices country-style or whole-grain bread
• Olive oil
• 4 thick slices halloumi cheese, 4 to 6 ounces
• 1/2 cup baby arugula or spinach
• 2 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, stemmed, thinly sliced
• Coarse salt, freshly ground black pepper
• Chopped fresh chives

Toast bread and keep warm. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Add a thin film of olive oil and then the cheese slices. Cook, without turning, until golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and brown the other side.

Drizzle the warm toast with olive oil, top with some of the arugula and then the warm cheese. Top with tomato slices, salt, and pepper. Sprinkle everything with chives. Serve right away with a knife and fork.

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