As the name implies, everything is done with Gusto at this find, on a side street in Manhattan’s West Village. The eatery is a “must stop” for either lunch or dinner. The proprietors focus on sustainable ingredients from local and family farms and vendors.
Gusto chefs prepare affordable, quality-driven dishes. Each preparation is evident of the extra love and respect for flavor that goes into each plate served. Shrewd and enthusiastic chef-partner Saul Montiel manages the kitchen.
Both Montiel’s mother, his idol, and his grandmother, restaurateurs themselves, were his best mentors. Montiel’s first New York mentor-teachers were two well-respected chefs: Amanda Freitag and Jody Williams.
Montiel reminisced how he would hang around his mother’s kitchen but never once imagined to become a chef, adding, “Cooking was for women. When I came to America, I started as a dishwasher. I realized then I knew I had it in me and was very good at cooking.”
One of four children, two of the men are chefs. Montiel recalled his mother teaching him to select produce and commenting, “Cooking is not for the money; it is about everything—an experience that has to be enjoyed,” of which I constantly remind my staff, adding, “because we are dealing with human beings and want to be the ones to make their enjoyment of food possible.”
The menu is comprised of intriguing dishes with an endless array of Italian classics and some of his own creations: Fave al Pecorino ($9), Minestra di Verdura ($8), and Northern Italian risotto dishes, such as Sotto Bosco ($22) and the well-known Sicilian meatballs, Polpettine alla Josphine ($20). Also available is a selection for fresh oysters and other delights.
My friend’s and my memorable dining experience began with the seasonal squash blossoms appetizer, stuffed with ricotta and mozzarella cheeses with a hint of anchovies and basil. An unassuming-looking presentation, the moment I saw it I recalled my childhood days playing in the open fields along the Mediterranean. My friend’s mother would make it for us.
Gusto’s was the best I ever had—scrumptious. To get the crunchy texture, each blossom was dipped in a batter made with sparkling water and cornstarch to keep it crispy. The cheese filling must be neither too solid nor too soft.
The next culinary delight, Polipetti alla Griglia ($14), grilled Portuguese octopus with celery, black olives, and cherry vinaigrette, appeared at table—a marvelous example of “simpler is better.”
All the scrupulously fresh ingredients complemented each other. Montiel related it took him much experimentation to perfect this dish, and that making it simple is better. That is his basic style—using few, simple ingredients, cooking them to perfection, resulting in true gourmet food at its finest. “The way I see food is like songs. Respect the lyrics and make it different and nice.”
A perfectly al dente, freshly prepared pasta dish arrived, one of chef’s signatures, the very rich and sublime Raviolo al Uova fatti in casa ($12). It contains organic butter from a local farm and is a spin-off from a preparation by renowned Italian chef Mario Batali.
The pasta’s incredible feel and taste of freshness and the quality of the ingredients make this a memorable menu item with buffalo Ricotta cheese, organic eggs, crispy leeks, and pancetta. The superb presentation is the result of many years of experimentation, and we slowly savored every bite.
The Polpettine alla Josephine ($20), Sicilian meatballs with pine nuts and raisins, can only be called a regal Sicilian presentation. This is an old recipe from the chef’s friend’s grandmother—veal and pork with light tomato sauce which can be accompanied by pasta upon order.
An unusual dish and the climax of the entire meal, the layers of the flavors of the Sotto Bosco ($22) awaken all the senses. It is a risotto dish looking and smelling like the forest—a mixture of berries, mushrooms, thyme, and cheese.
The Pesce con Amaretto ($11), prepared with peach and mascarpone, topped with warm sugar, would make a fitting ending to this outstanding meal.
With gusto I say, “Bon gusto! You have found another fan of Gusto Ristorante.”
Open lunch and dinner seven days a week.
The wine cellar with a communal table seating up to 70 is available for private parties.
60 Greenwich Ave.
New York, NY 10011
212-924-8000
Gustonyc.com
