The primary business of state capitals such as Olympia, Washington, is governing: drafting and passing bills (or not), floating budgets, gladhanding and strong-arming—so much to do. As a result, when the legislative season is in full swing, Olympia buzzes like a beehive.
But when I was there at the end of summer, all of those state senators, representatives, lobbyists, the governor and their staffers had left town, leaving the capitol building and its domed rotunda as quiet as a marble mausoleum.
For anyone planning to visit, this is the perfect time of year to discover the other Olympia, when the city moves at a more leisurely pace and there is music in the park. It’s a time to savor long, lingering sunsets ideally suited to outdoor dining at restaurants such as Row across from the Percival Landing marina.
For family entertainment, it’s the season when the String and Shadow Puppet Theater sets up its traveling caravan in a farmer’s field. And at night the downtown scene belongs to the locals and those visitors who were savvy enough to have put Olympia on the late summer travel itinerary.
Silent though it may be, a tour of the Legislative Building and the Temple of Justice overlooking Capitol Lake is well worth a visit. The Legislative Building is the dominant feature of the capitol grounds, with its 287-foot-tall dome whose scale rivals St. Paul’s Cathedral in London and St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.
A striking example of imposing Greek Revival architecture, the building was completed in 1928 after six years of construction and is the centerpiece of the five historic buildings that make up the campus, all designed by New York architects Walter Wilder and Harry White.
After being duly impressed by the imposing magnitude of these seats of power, it would be a good time to find your way to brunch at the considerably more modest Octopus Cafe. It’s comfortable and unpretentious with a wide-ranging menu. For a special touch of Pacific Northwest seafood, try the Dungeness crab cakes with smoked paprika aioli, or sample a half-dozen of various Washington-harvested oysters on the half shell.
Another treat for the senses (and the taste buds) is the Tenino Farmers Market in nearby Thurston County. It’s open every Saturday, May through September, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Founded in 2005, the market offers a cornucopia of fresh, locally grown produce, seafood, baked goods, cheeses, smoked meats and hand-crafted products accompanied by live music. I couldn’t resist the cookies in the shape of Big Foot and Baby Yoda.
A decidedly hip side to Olympia includes eateries like Chicory with its New Orleans flavors. (Definitely try the shrimp and grits). Its co-creators are the husband-and-wife team of Adam Wagner and Elise Landry. One of their signature desserts is Milk Pie With Concord Grape Sauce, Husk Cherries and a Black Walnut Praline Crumble.
But if you’re looking for the coolest spot in town head for Lantern Records—the first woman-owned record store in Olympia at 509 Washington St. The shop is cozy and decidedly funky with a touch of grunge. You’re likely to find the owner, Heather Hahn, and her partner-in-music Christine Greene (the force behind Olympia’s South Sound Block Festival) holding forth and spinning platters. Vintage vinyl is the order of the day, and if they deem you cool enough, Hahn and Greene might take you down the secret side alley that leads to Olympia’s great wall of outlaw street art.
