It’s a picture-perfect day as “O Sole Mio,” the classic song of the gondolier, wafts over the water. But while the song is unquestionably Italian and the sleek red-and-black craft we’re sitting in is truly Venetian, the gondolier manning the great oar, dressed traditionally in black pants, blue-and-white-striped pullover jersey and a ribboned straw hat, is Greg “Gregorio” Garite, a former elementary schoolteacher from Southern California. And we are not on the Grand Canal in Venice but cruising the tranquil waters of Gig Harbor, Washington. Incongruous? Certainly. But nonetheless very romantic.
Like the gondola from Italy, people from near and far have found their way to this place: from the Native Americans who first settled here to the Croatians and Scandinavians who founded its fishing industry and established businesses to the thousands of tourists and vacation homeowners who come to Gig Harbor to enjoy its idyllic setting, rich history, quaint shops, bustling farmers market, marine outfitters, and waterfront eateries.
“Buongiorno,” says “Gregorio,” as my companion, Elitsa, and I arrive. And there is his beautiful gondola bobbing gently against the dock. For the next hour he gives us a leisurely tour, gliding past downtown Gig Harbor, historic Millville and the picturesque flotilla of the fishing fleet. In contrast, the piney eastern shoreline is entirely residential, dotted with (mostly vacation) homes that range from comfy and modest to multimillion-dollar palatial. Then at exactly the right moment our gondolier begins to croon his song.
Gig Harbor may feel like a world unto itself, but in fact it’s a mere 25-minute drive from the hustle and bustle of downtown Tacoma, which makes it ideal for a day trip. A nice place to start is at the Devoted Kiss Cafe on North Harbor View Drive with its outdoor deck that overlooks the fishing-fleet docks. A specialty of the house is the cinnamon French toast topped with fresh strawberries and applewood smoked bacon.
Over the three or so miles that comprise Gig Harbor’s waterfront, there is no shortage of businesses and historic sites to explore, including the Harbor History Museum and the old net-drying shed. Whether you’re in search of exactly the right lead sinker, a delicate piece of art glass, a bouquet of blooms at the flower market, a high-octane tasting at Heritage Distilling, or the best fish and chips in town at Tides Tavern, it’s all just steps away.
The outdoor farmers market (open on Thursdays) attracts visitors and locals alike. Its tented booths offer everything from ripe peaches, plums, and bright Mount Rainier cherries to scented soaps and candles, all accompanied by a variety of live music. On market days it’s also possible to go aboard and tour some of the historic fishing boats moored at the wharf.
After having spent the better part of a full day exploring Gig Harbor, it felt good to get away and at a more tranquil pace enjoy the natural beauty of Kopachuck State Park. Publicly owned, the park is situated on Henderson Bay in Puget Sound, about 6 miles west of Gig Harbor. Its 109 acres with an abundance of hiking trails encompass more than a mile of saltwater shoreline with sweeping views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains in the distance.
