Crab Cakes, a Luxury Worth Making

These crab cakes only contain enough starch to hold them together. MacCallum House/Mendocino/TNS

Years ago, I was a judge at the Mendocino Crab and Wine Festival. We tasted 35 Dungeness crab cakes. The winning entry had mostly fresh crab meat morsels with just enough breadcrumbs to bind the crab together. This recipe from Executive Chef Alan Kantor, of MacCallum House in Mendocino, is similar to that one.

Chef Kantor adds scallions, parsley, lemon zest and mustard to bring all the flavors together. A Spanish roasted pepper, garlic and almond sauce compliments the sweetness of the crab cakes. Any leftover sauce can be a dip for vegetables or a finishing sauce on any grilled fish, chicken, or meat.

Dungeness crab, also called West Coast crab, is named after a small town in Washington State, even though it is caught from the waters of the California coast all the way up to Alaska. Compared to other varieties, Dungeness has a naturally sweet, buttery flavor that is well suited for this dish. Fresh Dungeness crab is available from early December through August. Alaskan king crab would work here too. Whatever you do, don’t substitute finely shredded crab or imitation crab (surimi) for this recipe. You need lump crab for this recipe. Crab meat has gone up in price like everything else, so I would make this for a special occasion. Also, you can cut this recipe in half for four people.

These Seriously Simple crab cakes cook best when the mixture is given some time to chill before the cakes are sauteed. Chilling the crab cakes allows the binding to absorb some of the extra moisture so the cakes will hold together well. Serve these crab cakes on their own or with a simple mixed green salad dressed with a light vinaigrette. To drink: Pour a crisp, lively chardonnay with this dish—it will highlight the background citrus flavor.

Mendocino Crispy Crab Cakes With Romesco Sauce

Serves 8

For the Romesco sauce:

(Makes about 1 1/2 cups)

• 1/2 cup roasted sweet red peppers, peeled and seeded (you can use jarred)
• 3 tablespoons toasted almonds
• 1 slice white bread, crusts removed and cut into small pieces
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar
• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the crab cakes:

• 2 pounds Dungeness crab meat drained
• 2/3 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 cup sourdough breadcrumbs
• 1/2 bunch green onions finely chopped
• 1/2 bunch parsley finely chopped (2 teaspoons reserved for garnish)
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1/2 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• Olive or grapeseed oil for frying
• Arugula leaves, for garnish

For the Romesco sauce:

1. In a blender combine all the ingredients except for the oil, salt and pepper, and blend until pureed. Add the oil in slowly and blend until the mixture is emulsified. Add salt and pepper and a little water if too thick. Taste for seasoning. Reserve.

For the crab cakes:

1. Mix all ingredients together except the oil and garnish until well blended. Portion the mixture into 16 (2-ounce) cakes on a parchment-lined sheet and chill for an hour.

2. In a large frying pan add 2 tablespoons oil on medium heat. Saute the crab cakes in batches until browned and slightly crispy on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Be careful when turning them so they stay together. They should be golden brown on both sides.

3. Place the crab cakes on a baking sheet in a 275-degree oven to keep them warm. Add additional oil and saute the rest of the crab cakes until golden brown. Add more oil as needed.

4. To serve: Smear a dollop of Romesco sauce on the plate and place the crab cake on top with a sprinkle of chopped parsley and arugula leaves as garnish.

Dear Readers: We would love to hear from you. What topics would you like to read about? Please send your feedback and tips to [email protected].