Cold Winter Days Call for Warm, Cozy Soup

Enliven any soup, homemade or packaged, with interesting garnishes. JeanMarie Brownson/TCA

Homemade soup cures the winter blues by filling the house with lovely aromas and filling our souls with warm goodness. Soup proves economical and makes for great leftovers or lunches on the go.

Good broth is the ticket for gratifying flavor. I pick up frozen homemade broth and stock at our local butcher. These stocks tend to be richer and stronger-flavored than packaged broth, resulting in fuller-bodied, yummy soups.

Broth and stock concentrates or bases—such as Williams-Sonoma’s Chicken Stock Concentrate, Better than Bouillon, and Minor’s—reconstituted with hot water are better tasting and less salty than bouillon cubes. Boxed broths and stocks taste good but are considerably more expensive per cup than reconstituted broth bases.

Of course, homemade tastes freshest and is easy enough to make with bones and scraps from chicken or beef along with a few aromatic vegetables such as onion, carrot, and celery. The biggest advantage to homemade broths is the cook has control of the sodium content. Broths freeze well if you have the space. Package them in 1-cup containers for ease of use later.

No need to thaw frozen broth; simply unmold the frozen chunk from the container straight into a saucepan. Set on very low heat, the broth will thaw slowly while you gather other ingredients.

Broth handled, it’s soup time. The fastest soups utilize frozen vegetables such as peas, diced squash, broccoli, and potatoes which quickly cook to tenderness in broth. Canned beans and chick peas add protein. Enhance everything with leftovers such as roasted chicken and/or vegetables, plus a bit of cooked pasta or grains. Sliced cooked sausage, frozen shrimp or scallops can be added to soups shortly before serving, simply cook a few minutes to heat through.

Enliven any soup, homemade or packaged, with interesting garnishes. Cheese shreds, chopped fresh herbs, and hearty croutons turn a bowl of soup into a main dish. A swirl of refrigerated pesto, hot chile sauce, or fruity olive oil adds a restaurant-worthy touch.

In the recipe that follows, canned unsweetened coconut milk stands in for some of the liquid. The milk adds flavor and a silky texture. Vary the frozen vegetables as you see fit and swirl in Thai chile paste for flavor and spice. Fresh Thai basil adds licorice notes that pair beautifully with the broth and coconut. A squeeze of fresh lime adds brightness.

Soup. Healthful, homey, fast. What more could you want? I know. Crusty bread. And an interesting dinner companion. Take that, winter!

Simple Chicken Broth

Makes about 8 cups

• 3 pounds chicken wings, necks, and backs
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 1/2 onion, roughly chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 or 3 bay leaves
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1. Put chicken parts into a large, deep 5-quart saucepan or pot. Add 3 quarts cold water, carrot, onion, garlic, bay leaves, and thyme. Heat to a boil; skim off any foam. Reduce heat to low and simmer, partly covered, until the meat falls off the bones, about 1 1/2 hours.

2. Strain into a large bowl or glass measure. (Discard solids.) Pour into small covered containers. Refrigerate for a few days or freeze up to several months.

Coconut Chicken Soup With Butternut Squash and Thai Curry

Makes 4 servings

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil or alternative
• 3 green onions, trimmed, or 1/2 small onion, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped or crushed
• 2 cups small cubes butternut squash (or frozen cubes)
• 3 to 4 cups chicken broth
• 1 can (13.5 ounces) unsweetened coconut milk
• 1 cup (5 ounces) frozen shelled edamame or lima beans
• 1 cup (4 ounces) frozen pearl onions or sliced carrots
• 1 or 2 teaspoons refrigerated ginger puree
• 1 teaspoon Thai-style red curry paste, or to taste
• 2 cups (about 10 ounces) diced cooked chicken
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or to taste
• Salt to taste
• 1/4 cup thinly sliced fresh Thai basil or cilantro or a combination
• Fresh basil or cilantro sprigs, for garnish
• Lime wedges, for serving

1. Heat oil in the bottom of a large 5-quart saucepan or small Dutch oven over medium heat. Add green onions and garlic. Saute 2 minutes. Add butternut and saute until edges are starting to turn golden, about 3 minutes.

2. Stir in 3 cups of the broth and 1 can coconut milk. Heat to a simmer. Add edamame, pearl onions, ginger puree, and curry paste; simmer 10 minutes. Add remaining 1 cup broth as desired.

3. Just before serving, add chicken and simmer just long enough to heat chicken, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with lime juice and salt. Stir in chopped basil or cilantro or the combination.

4. Serve in warmed soup bowls. Garnish with herb sprigs and lime wedges.

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