Cherry Season Calls for a Host of Delicious Recipes

Sweet and sour cherries are a part of many of our childhood memories.
Cherry Season Calls for a Host of Delicious Recipes
Cherry-Ginger-Orange Drop Biscuits. JeanMarie Brownson/TNS
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My grandmother had two cherry trees in her backyard. Early summer evenings found my sisters and me sorting, stemming, and pitting cherries to turn into jam, ice cream toppings, and all manner of baked goods. Messy work, cherry pitting. We used our small hands and paper clips.

Decades later, I happily employ a cherry pitter to make quick work of the farmers market cherries now in season. Made by OXO Good Grips, this is one kitchen gadget worth the drawer space. The action reminds me of using a stapler, except this pitter shoots the pit out of the cherry’s interior. There are other styles and brands of cherry pitters, some with large hoppers that hold a lot of cherries at once, but for most home cooking endeavors, the one-at-a-time pitters work well.

Lacking a cherry pitter? Use a large paper clip and open it up at the bend. Use the smaller curved end to insert it into the pit area, twist, and pull out the pit. Another option is to use a chopstick to push the pit through the cherry.

When pitting cherries, work in the sink or a deep bowl to catch the inevitable spray of cherry juice. And be sure not to wear white for this job.

Pitting cherries is messy work, so you may want to avoid wearing white. (JeanMarie Brownson/TNS)
Pitting cherries is messy work, so you may want to avoid wearing white. JeanMarie Brownson/TNS

The recipes that follow can be made with dark red and sweet Bing cherries, as well as the crunchy, golden yellow with a splash of red Rainier cherries. For a few short weeks every summer, bright and tangy sour cherries, such as Montmorency, grace local farmers markets. They are delicious in all the following recipes.

The roasted cherry recipe can be served in several ways: Spoon it warm alongside grilled or roasted pork chops, chicken, or duck breast. Or, spoon it over bitter, multi-colored lettuces for a surprising summer salad. The cherries and their pan juices can be stirred into warm, cooked brown rice or quinoa for a grain salad.

The drop biscuits are best served warm with soft butter. For dessert, split them horizontally in half and top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a generous spoonful of cherry sauce.

Roasted Cherries With Balsamic and Shallots

Makes about 3 cups
  • 1 1/2 pounds Bing cherries, about 4 cups, stemmed, pitted
  • 3 shallots or 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced (3/4 cup)
  • 6 large cloves garlic, peeled, halved
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  • Salt, freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • Finely shredded lemon rind from 1/2 lemon
  • Fresh lemon thyme leaves and sprigs for garnish
Heat oven to 400 degrees F. Put pitted cherries onto a large rimmed baking sheet. Add shallots and garlic. Drizzle with oil and vinegar; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir to coat everything well.

Roast, stirring occasionally, until cherries are soft, garlic is tender, and pan juices are reduced to a glaze, about 20 minutes. Cool slightly.

Serve warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with lemon rind and thyme leaves. Garnish with thyme sprigs.

Spoon these tangy-sweet roasted cherries alongside grilled or roasted meats, over greens, or into warm grains. (JeanMarie Brownson/TNS)
Spoon these tangy-sweet roasted cherries alongside grilled or roasted meats, over greens, or into warm grains. JeanMarie Brownson/TNS

Cherry-Ginger-Orange Drop Biscuits

Serves 6
  • 2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 cup diced pitted sour or Bing cherries
  • 1/4 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange rind
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
  • 3/4 cup buttermilk or plain Greek yogurt
Heat oven to 425 degrees F. Have a parchment-lined baking sheet ready.

Put flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in a large bowl. Mix well. Stir in cherries, ginger, and orange rind until nicely coated with flour.

Put butter into a small bowl. Cover with parchment paper. Microwave on high (100 percent power) until melted, about 30 seconds.

Alternately stir the buttermilk and 6 tablespoons of the melted butter into the flour mixture. Stir just to moisten the flour evenly. The dough will be soft and shaggy.

Divide the dough into 8 even pieces. Put each piece onto the prepared baking sheet, about 1 1 /2 inches apart. Use clean hands to gently shape the mounds into round disks. Bake until the tops are golden brown and bottoms are crisp, 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove pan to a wire rack. Brush tops of biscuits with the remaining 2 tablespoons of melted butter. Cool slightly. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Cherry and Orange Ice Cream Topping

Makes about 3 cups
  • 4 cups pitted, stemmed sour or sweet cherries, from about 1 1/2 pounds
  • 1/3 to 2/3 cup sugar
  • Pinch salt
  • 1 tablespoon cornstarch
  • 1/3 cup fresh orange juice
  • 1 or 2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur, optional
Put cherries into a medium-size saucepan. Add 1/3 cup sugar if using sweet cherries or 2/3 cup sugar if using sour cherries. Add salt. Stir well and let sit about 1 hour to draw the juices out of the fruit.

Dissolve the cornstarch in the orange juice in a small dish; stir until smooth. Set the pan of cherries over medium-low. Stir in the cornstarch mixture. Cook and stir until cherries are soft and the pan juices have thickened and turned glossy, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in optional liqueur.

Spoon into a covered container and refrigerate up to a week. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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JeanMarie Brownson
JeanMarie Brownson
Author
JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades. ©2022 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.
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