This British-Indian gastronomic spice playground is reminiscent of London’s East End curry houses on Brick Lane. This one, though, stands quietly in Lower Manhattan’s East Sixth Street. The location was once known as Indian Restaurant Row but has since become an international gastronomic block with dining places offering cuisines from around the world. Brick Lane Curry House is a haven for New York City’s British expats.
India, the huge country with its diverse cultures and food preferences, shows its culinary influences the international community of traders, colonizers, and settlers have left and the eating habits of its indigenous people. Indian cuisine abounds with a vibrant and colorful heritage with the sights, the flavors, and the traditions from a multitude of cultures. The foods and cultures differ from one location to the next and from one coast to the other.
Having a meal at Brick Lane lets one experience an Indian culture and the culinary delights in the dishes served. For instance, vindaloo, originally a Portuguese dish that was made with pork [a taboo for most Indians] has adjusted to Indian culture and religious preferences by substituting lamb for pork. The Portuguese also introduced chilis, mangos, and tomatoes, whereas tandoor is of Persian and Greek influences. Tandoor actually refers to a special oven, the shape of a cylinder, made of clay, heated to high temperature over charcoal or wood, and used for baking bread and roasting meat.
Offering 15 different types of curries for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians, it becomes obvious there is more to be found than the notorious phaal at Brick Lane. The eatery is also about warmth with friendly and knowledgeable service at reasonable prices in a casual setting. Dishes include bhuna, a curry in which meat is reduced with the sauce, which has an intense flavor. The British favorite is Onion Kanda Bhaji ($7). The curried Do Piaza is loaded with onions. The tandoor specialties and appetizers, like Prawns Balchao and Lasuni Gobi, the chicken, lamb, or seafood tikkas all focus on authentic techniques and traditions. And who would want to pass up the addicting naan or the chapati?
With his passion for cooking beaming in his eyes, Kumar told me that he comes from a family of food lovers and talented cooks. His mother was his motivator. His affinity for cooking began at age eight. With his mother’s careful instructions, his specialty was making omelets.
We were served an endless array of colorful and exotic curries from India’s different regions. Among the appetizers served, the Indo-Chinese-influenced and mildly spiced Lassuni Gobi ($7) stood out. It is made with crispy cauliflower florets tossed in tomato and garlic sauce and sesame seeds. It can be ordered in different levels of hot and spicy. My friend loved its contrasting flavors and textures: crunchy and smooth, with a medium heat playing nicely against the lemony and sour. This dish is common in the Tangra section of Calcutta where Hakka Chinese immigrated and settled. The next offering was more to my liking, Samosas ($7). This crispy pastry is available in two different varieties: vegetarian, stuffed with spiced potatoes, and non-vegetarian, stuffed with marinated, minced lamb with the chef’s own combination of spices, accompanied by curry leaves and tamarind and mint sauce, providing a pleasant mélange of flavors and textures on the tongue. Something about the taste of mint and tamarind brings joy to my taste buds.
The chef’s special, Mixed Tandoori Sizzler ($20), is not to be missed. Kumar has outdone anyone in this preparation. It is a mixture of very tender and flavorful meats and fish. The lamb chops are marinated with Kumar’s house seasoning, a mixture of herbs, spices, and tamarind. Chicken and scallops are wrapped in pomegranate leaves, a common herb used in India, adding a touch of bitter. The combination was a culinary delight. The ginger and garlic-marinated salmon wrapped in Earth’s gift to the world, addictive fenugreek leaves, known as Katsuri Methi, is not to be missed. Imagine the flavors infused into the meats and seafood as it sizzles on the platter. I delighted with the salmon and scallops, which I thought was the best I ever ate. The Indian saying, “Never trust a skinny cook,” came to mind as I was savoring every bit of chef Kumar’s food. But looking at this man proved the saying wrong!
The Chicken Tikka Massala ($17), prepared with the chef’s house-made masala, curry leaves, mustard, red chilies, and fenugreek leaves, was served with tomato cream sauce. This was good, but for my taste, perhaps the chef might consider a lighter hand with the tomatoes.
The Saag ($15) was the greenest that I have ever seen. It was served with unusual crunchy garlic and mild spices. The Vindaloo ($19), although fiery hot, impressed my friend who was gulping it quickly. The meat was tender, cooked with a medley of hot peppers, predominantly red and green, with a touch of vinegar to enhance the flavors of the peppers.
The sweet Gulab Jamun or Ras Malai would make a delightful end to this meal.
Lunch Buffet for $9.99 is from noon to 4:00 pm and all day on Sunday. Open Friday and Saturday noon to 1:00 a.m. Sunday through Thursday noon to 11:00 p.m.
Address: 306–308 E. Sixth St., New York, NY 10003
Phone: 212-979-2900 and 212-979-8787.
Web site: bricklanecurryhouse.com
