Ali Baba, a down-to-earth Turkish gem in east Midtown, started life as a humble pizza place.
Owners Ali Riza Dogan and his father (“baba” in Turkish) Cernal Dogan opened their own restaurant in 1997, after a decade in Paramus, N.J., working in the restaurant industry side by side at every job they found.
“We washed dishes together, were cooks together, and were busboys together,” said Ali Riza Dogan.
At that time, Turkish cuisine was relatively new in New York City, and Ali Baba was at the forefront of bringing the cuisine to New Yorkers’ palates.
Its popularity skyrocketed after a mention in The New York Times in 1999 extolled the lahmacun and sent lines out the door.
The pizzeria fit all of four seats at the time. Then gradually, they started introducing Turkish food. The lahmacun, dubbed Turkish pizza, was a sort of gateway dish into the vast ancient realm of Turkish cuisine. A flatbread garnished with ground lamb and minced vegetables, bears some resemblance to its Italian counterpart, but is a revelation. It’s great on its own for a snack, or makes an appetizer that entices you to try more Turkish dishes.
By and by, the pizzas completely gave way to the Dogans’ native Turkish cuisine. At the same time, the number of seats grew from 4, to 30, to now over 100.
Today, at Ali Baba, on East 34th Street (between Second and Third avenues), father and son still work together, although they now oversee a total of four Turkish restaurants, including Ali Baba Terrace (with a beautiful terrace at 862 Second Avenue).
Dogan’s father works at the restaurant six days a week. He’s 71 but loves his work and is full of energy. “He doesn’t want to stay home,” said his son. “He still picks up dishes from the tables.” His face is a familiar, friendly one to diners ever since the days of old, when Ali Baba served pizza (the Italian kind).
Ali Baba has since seen many well-known figures walk through its doors—from Mayor Bloomberg to tennis player Serena Williams to Food Network judge Padma Lakshmi, as well as Turkish dignitaries in town for a visit
Clean and Light
It took thousands of years for Turkish cuisine to evolve into what it is today. At the crossroads of trade routes, sitting between East and West, and its grand bazaars selling delicacies from afar, Turkey developed a cuisine from Ottoman, Middle Eastern, and Central Asian influences.
It’s a must to start with a selection of mezze (or appetizers). Unless you know exactly what you want, opt for a mezze platter—that will give you ample portions of different specialties. The hummus is delicious and has a clean and light chickpea taste that comes through, without the heavy hand of garlic behind it that you find at some places.
There’s also the lebni, a thick homemade yogurt with garlic, dill, and a surprising but nice addition of crunchy walnuts; boroni (fresh sauteed spinach); eggplant salad, prepared the night before so that flavors of the lemon juice, olive oil, grilled peppers, grilled tomatoes, smoked eggplant, and seasonings have more time to meld together; and tender beans. The small plate has ample portions ($13.95) while the large ($20.95) should feed a small army.
A Shepherd’s Salad, with fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, green peppers, parsley, onions, and an olive oil and lemon juice dressing, makes for a good, light side dish. (small $9, large $12.95)
Although vegetarians will have been catered to and made happy with the previous spread, there’s plenty for omnivore and meat-lover dishes to enjoy.
Like the mezze platter, the Mixed Grill platter ($23.50) is a good way to try out various meats, from the shish kebabs (marinated cubes of lamb grilled on skewers), to adana kebabs (ground lamb, with red bell peppers and paprika, also grilled on skewers), and lamb chops. All the meat is halal.
The rice that came with the platter was light and fluffy, and had the addition of golden vermicelli noodles.
Also worth trying is the Special Spicy Beyti ($16.50), ground lamb flavored with garlic, hot peppers, parsley, grilled on skewers, and wrapped in lavash bread and drizzled over with a house special sauce.
Portions at Ali Baba are large. I ate so much I barely walked out of the restaurant on my own two feet, and I still had leftovers for my colleagues, who seemingly descended from nowhere and wiped the containers clean in no time.
I probably should have left the desserts alone, but they are a wonderful ending to the meal, and it is best to pace oneself to be able to nibble on some sweet flaky baklava, or for something different, the kunefe, a little pie made of shredded phyllo dough and cheese.
True to Turkish form, the hospitality from the staff is wonderful—like the restaurant itself, down to earth and genuine. Ali Baba is thoroughly worth checking out. Go with an appetite.
Ali Baba Turkish Cuisine
212 E. 34th St.
212-683-9206
www.alibabaturkishcuisine.com
Hours
Daily: 11 a.m.–11 p.m.
