Al Bustan is the place where authentic, Lebanese-Middle Eastern cuisine is served. This sophisticated restaurant manages to recreate the essence of Beirut’s bygone days as the “Paris of the Middle East.”
Although Lebanon is a small country along the eastern coast of the Mediterranean side of the Middle East, it is one of the most diverse and vibrant places found anywhere. The country is home to ancient great civilizations, yet its people exist harmoniously in a mix of old and new cultures and traditions.
As any student of history knows, the Lebanese have benefited from their varied heritages: the Phoenicians, the Caledonians, the Aramaeans, the Persians, the Assyrians, the Arabs, and the Armenians. This makes for a rich cultural background that translates into the nation’s culinary treasures. The country’s rich soil produces among the best fruits and vegetables. The lean meat and seafood are also outstanding.
Al Bustan’s owner and executive chef, Elias Ghafary, is the pioneer in introducing New York diners to the cuisine of his native country. He has retained chef de cuisine Refaat Husseini and acquired partner Norman Hobeika and part owner Paul Hobeika.
This stylishly decorated and warm place is for savoring Middle Eastern dishes from a satisfying menu of lamb, chicken, and seafood selections. Take your time browse enticing plates, expertly prepared in the hands of talented chefs. Versatile lamb preparations abound and all are delectable, as are the salads, the tangy cheeses, tabbouleh, and of course the ubiquitous falafel. Prices are quite reasonable.
Royal Meze, the one dish that made Lebanese cuisine world-famous, really stands out. It consists of a dozen small hot and cold dishes that can be shared. Hummus, a savory chickpea puree augmented with sesame paste, garlic, and lemon juice, accompanied by pita bread, is $6.50. The Zaatar Salad, made with wild fresh oregano, lemon juice, and olives is $8.00. I enjoyed it so much that I felt transported back to the mountains of Lebanon in the summer time!
The sautéed spicy lamb and beef sausages called Sujuk and Makanek are worth every penny of the $7.00. The most labor-intensive appetizer is the Silek Mahshi at $8.00—Swiss chard stuffed with rice, chickpeas, and lemon. Kibbeh is $8.00.
Grilled meats and fish bring up the main course. Among them is a version of steak tartare called Kibbeh Nayeh at $18.00, one of my favorite dishes. Baked red snapper is another often-requested preparation, as is the exotic soup, Mouloukhia, at $20.00, which is prepared with chopped mallow leaves, cilantro, and chicken.
By all means, do not neglect to order from an astonishingly delightful dessert menu. I am fond of Halawt el Jiben, sweet cheese rolls filled with an unusually creamy textured mixture; Kanufa; and Katayef, pancakes filled with pistachios in a light cream. Also good are the Karabij Halab, semolina cookies with pistachios and sugar filling. They arrive accompanied by a mountain of “snow,” made from arrowroot meringue.
The restaurant has a full bar, which serves wines and spirits including Lebanon-grown vintages and arrack, a strong Middle Eastern alcoholic drink fermented from palm sap, fruit, and sugarcane. Non-alcoholic beverages range from the traditional tamarind drink, made with tamarind syrup and water, to the rosewater-perfumed drink Jellab, made with Carib molasses with a float of pine nuts.
Considering all these exotic yet healthy food choices, who would not want to patronize this establishment at least once a month? Bring your children. The restaurant is children-friendly!
319 E. 53rd St., between First and Second avenues, New York, N.Y. 10022
212-759-5933
Albustanny.com
Sunday through Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday until 11:00 p.m.
Reservations recommended.
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