If you peek around your local health food store, you’re bound to come across bulk bins brimming with heritage grains. Einkorn, emmer, and spelt are all ancient varieties of wheat. Thanks to passionate farmers and wellness-minded cooks, they’re enjoying a resurgence. These grains bring a sense of delight to the kitchen and a connection to the hearths and fields of the past.
Unlike modern, conventional wheat, which has been selectively bred for high yields and strong gluten, heritage grains remain closer to their original forms with little change over thousands of years. As a result, they are more nutrient-dense and contain higher levels of antioxidants, especially carotenoids, vitamin E, and B vitamins.
Their gluten structure is also fundamentally different from modern wheat. Einkorn, emmer, and spelt contain weaker forms of gluten that break down more easily. Some people report that they’re are easier to digest than modern wheat varieties, but research is mixed. Some research suggests that lower levels of enzyme inhibitors or FODMAPS (complex carbohydrates that can cause digestive distress in susceptible people) in ancient grains may make them easier to digest—especially if made into sourdough.
If the promise of more nutritious baked goods isn’t enough, there’s another big appeal: their unmatched flavor. These ancient grains deliver layers of flavor and deep nourishment.
Einkorn
Considered nature’s first wheat by scientists, einkorn (Triticum monococcum), has been used in the human diet for 10,000 years. The grain was pivotal as a foundational crop for early agriculture, and researchers have found it in early Neolithic sites stretching across the Fertile Crescent.Cooks prize this small, golden grain for its sweet, nutty flavor and soft texture. The grain’s weak gluten structure works in a baker’s favor: It produces tender cakes, quick breads, and cookies with a delicate crumb. Einkorn is nutrient dense, too. It is also richer in antioxidants, beta-carotene, B vitamins, and protein than modern wheat. It is particularly rich in lutein, a potent antioxidant that supports eye health.
Emmer
Emmer (Triticum dicoccum) was first cultivated in the Fertile Crescent about 9,000 years ago. It was a key crop in Ancient Egypt, where it was used in beer and bread making. It also played a role in Roman cuisine.Emmer berries have a hearty, chewy texture and soft, nutty flavor. They’re perfect for pilafs, soups, and salads. Emmer flour has a soft, delicate sweetness that works well in cookies and quick breads. Like other flours from ancient grains, it contains less gluten than modern wheat and is less elastic. This makes it work well in crackers and flatbreads, but you may want to combine it with wheat flour in bread baking. Emmer contains a rich mineral profile and is a better source of vitamin B2 (riboflavin) and vitamin E than modern wheat.
Spelt
Spelt (Triticum spelta) also has roots that stretch back to the dawn of agriculture. It was widely cultivated in medieval Europe, where it was used in breads and porridges.Spelt has a rustic texture and sweet, slightly nutty flavor. Spelt flour serves as a passable substitute for modern wheat flour, though its weaker gluten structure makes denser and slightly crumblier baked goods.
Baking and Cooking With Ancient Grains
Exploring ancient grains allows you to experiment with new flavors and textures while improving both the diversity in your diet and its nutrient density. If you’re used to baking with wheat, you’ll need to make a few adjustments before you tackle any ancient grains. Their unique properties, such as their gluten structure or how fast they absorb water, mean you’ll need to adjust your recipes. Of course, no changes are necessary if you use recipes developed with these grains in mind.For example, einkorn has a softer gluten structure and produces sticky dough. You also need to use about 20 to 30 percent less water and fat when converting modern wheat-based recipes to einkorn. Owing to its weak gluten structure, einkorn bread requires delicate handling and is best baked in forms, such as a loaf pan, rather than free-form. Similarly, spelt requires less liquid than modern wheat, and while it doesn’t produce a sticky dough like einkorn, spelt doughs tend to spread.
If you’re just starting with these ancient grains, look for recipes designed for their use. Recipes explicitly developed for ancient grains highlight their best qualities while helping you understand their unique properties. It’s a way to get to know the grain before experimenting.
