When you hear “green tomatoes,” does the word “fried” come to mind automatically? Aside from that Southern classic of breaded green tomato slices fried golden, few people have any idea of what else to do with hard, unripe tomatoes. Last week at a blustery farmers market, there were green tomatoes for sale. But nobody—vendors or customers alike—had the foggiest idea what else to do with them, beyond the obvious.
On that almost-last market of the year, I decided to add green tomatoes to a stew of the most colorful nuggets of produce I could find. Waxy golden potatoes, orange-fleshed squash, fully ripened red Anaheim peppers, and dark green kale. I cooked this farm-grown bounty with wild rice, a deer bone, and locally foraged chanterelles and lobster mushrooms. The fungus gave all of its earthy flavor to the broth. And the slices of green t0matoes from the pile on the counter did what a squeeze of lemon could otherwise have done—cut through the butter, oil, and meat juices and sharpen the flavor.
Most soups or stews could probably benefit from some pieces of in-season, non-fried green tomatoes, so don’t be afraid to chop and throw some in. They won’t bother you and will probably just melt away, especially if you chop them small enough. And beyond the soup pot, any dish that could stand a squeeze of lemon could probably use a strategically placed green tomato along the way.
A few days later, I discovered how to make a green tomato sauce by accident, while cooking cauliflower with bacon. As the bacon browned, I added some green tomato slices to see what would happen. They vanished into a simmering reduction. I added the cauliflower and cooked it in the sauce until it was soft and irresistible.
Green Tomato Stew
This soup must be rich and fatty in order for the green tomatoes to do their thing, so don’t skimp on the oil and butter. If you don’t have, or want, a meaty bone, use stock in place of water.- 12 cups water
- 1 or 2 soup bones (or replace the water with chicken, beef, or veggie stock)
- 1 cup wild rice
- 1 pound of potatoes, cubed
- 1 pound squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into cubes
- 6 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 1 pound mushrooms (wild, domestic, or a mix)
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- Several leaves of kale, pulled off the rib and chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, chopped
- 3 large green tomatoes, cut into wedges
- 2 teaspoons salt (if using stock instead of water, just add salt to taste)
- Pepper, to taste
- Roasted chile peppers as a garnish (optional)
While the rice cooks, preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Clean the squash and cut it into cubes. Toss them in 2 tablespoons olive oil, then spread on a baking pan. Roast until soft and starting to brown, about 40 minutes. Turn off the oven, but leave them in the oven to cool slowly for now. At this point, they’re like candy and hard not to keep eating; beware. (Enjoy.)
While the squash cooks, sauté the onions and mushrooms in the butter and remaining oil. Add the thyme, then cook on medium heat, stirring as necessary, until the mushrooms are limp and the onions are translucent.
Green Tomato Sauce
Full of savory zing, this all-purpose sauce is great on meat and vegetables. You will need a heavy-bottomed pan with a tight-fitting lid.- 1 green tomato, cored and sliced into about 12 wedges
- 2 tablespoons olive oil (or 2 slices of bacon, chopped)
- 1 cubic inch ginger, peeled and sliced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 12 ounces cauliflower florets or another vegetable, or pieces of meat
- 1 cup water
- 1 tablespoon fish sauce
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce
- Salt and pepper
Before anything burns, add the cauliflower, water, fish sauce, and soy sauce and put the lid on. Steam should build up under the lid and melt the green tomatoes into a sauce, which will coat the cauliflower, meat, or whatever you have cooking in it. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.
