3 Fine Days in County Cork, Ireland

From the English Market to Blarney Castle, this Irish county is full of breathtaking gems

Blarney Castle and its grounds in Cork County, Ireland. Andreas Vogel/Shutterstock

I stood at the fork of the walking path near the Rock Close at Blarney Castle in County Cork, Ireland, and listened to the songbirds while watching the sheep graze contentedly in a far pasture. Turning toward Blarney Lake, I embarked on a peaceful, breathtaking circuit of the 21-acre body of water. Ireland’s beauty was more wild and rugged than I had expected. It seemed to be taking me on a journey, slowly unwinding and revealing itself until I, like so many others, was spellbound by its magic.

An opportunity to join my husband on his work trip this spring landed me in Ireland for the first time, and gave me three glorious days to explore County Cork with total independence. Enjoying my newfound, freedom, I wasted no time in trying to soak up the history and stunning scenery around me.

ariadna de raadt/Shutterstock

Day 1: Cork City

Located in the south of Ireland, Cork is often referred to as Ireland’s second capital. I decided to spend my first day in Cork City.

The city of Cork is home to stunning historical churches and yet also evokes a modern vibe. Like any interesting city, its busy roads branch into beautiful alleys, lined with boutique shops and hip restaurants. After a full Irish breakfast at the Montenotte Hotel—complete with eggs, beans, mushrooms, and blood pudding—I spent my morning winding my way along the city’s streets and browsing through used bookstores with a flat white from Three Fools Coffee in hand. After a brie and serrano ham sandwich at The English Market, a bustling covered market with 55 stalls, I made my way to St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral.

The shoreline of Cobh in Cork County, Ireland. Artur Bogacki/Shutterstock

Since its origin as a monastery in the seventh century, the site of the cathedral has been a place of worship. The cathedral itself—complete with its gorgeous stained-glass windows, stone carvings, and ornate organ—was finished in the 19th century.

From there, I headed to St. Anne’s Church to ring the Shandon Bells. The church, made of red sandstone and white limestone, is said to have inspired the city’s sporting colors. On my way up the tower, I had the opportunity to ring the bells. Stumbling through the printed music for “Frère Jacques,” I serenaded a city that I was beginning to love.

St. Anne's church, known for its Shandon Bells, in Cork City, Ireland. Peter OToole/Shutterstock

Day 2: Blarney Castle

A tower house built between the 15th century and 17th century, Blarney Castle is located about 5 miles northwest of Cork City in Blarney Village. As intriguing as the castle itself was—what with its murder hole and a stone said to give the gift of eloquence to anyone who kissed it—the grounds were breathtaking.

I spent several hours working my way through the lush fern garden, strolling the winding pathways of the woodland walk, and reading about every plant in the poison garden. I could have walked all day and still not have seen the whole thing; this is where the endless, varied beauty of Ireland really began to captivate me. The gardens were filled with hidden doorways and ivy-covered walls, waterfalls, and enormous trees.

St. Colman's Cathedral rises above the seaside town of Cobh in Cork County, Ireland. mikemike10/Shutterstock

The Blarney Stone is reached by a steep, continuous flight of 100 steps to the top of the tower. It is believed that those who kiss the stone will be given “the gift of the gab.” In the past, a would-be kisser had to be dangled by the ankles over the side of the tower in order to kiss the stone. Thankfully, modern protocols have made this much safer and easier. Ronald Regan and Winston Churchill are both said to have kissed it.

Busy streets and restaurants, a bustling downtown, and sunsets over River Lee can all be experienced in Cork, Ireland. mikemike10/Shutterstock

Day 3: Cobh

By my last day in Ireland, I was so intrigued by the country’s history that I took the train to the beautiful seaside town of Cobh. I spent the morning exploring the Cobh Heritage Centre, learning about the devastating effects of the potato famine and the history of Irish emigration. The museum also explores Ireland’s fascinating journey to independence from the UK more than 100 years ago.

Its neighboring museum, the Titanic Experience in Cobh, is all about the ill-fated ship’s last port of call in Cobh. Visitors can take a guided tour and revisit the experiences of passengers who boarded at Queenstown, the former name for Cobh.

The entrance to The Montenotte Hotel. Courtesy of Small Luxury Hotels of the World

Cobh is home to some breathtaking streets, including some colorful row houses that make for an iconic picture with St. Colman’s Cathedral in the background. For lunch, I went to The Mex for take-out quesadillas. Made with quality, fresh ingredients, and eaten alone on the pier, the quesadillas made for an incredible meal.

Breakfast at Panorama Bistro at The Montenotte Hotel. Courtesy of Small Luxury Hotels of the World

With its rich, varied history, lush landscape, and beautiful buildings, County Cork is well worth a visit. I know I have yet to experience so many of the county’s gems: the harbor at Kinsale, the Copper Coast Geopark, the sunset at Killary Harbor. But I saw enough to rope me in, and I cannot wait to go back.

A junior suite at The Montenotte Hotel. Courtesy of Small Luxury Hotels of the World

If You Go

Fly: Aer Lingus offers several direct flights from the U.S. to Dublin. You can then fly, drive, or take the train to Cork. I recommend the train as it offers stunning views of the Irish countryside.

Getting Around: Cork is a very walkable city, and the train was perfect for exploring nearby towns. However, if you want to hike and explore off the beaten track, a car is ideal for getting around.

Stay: The Montenotte Hotel offered spacious rooms, an excellent breakfast, and a lovely view of the city.

Take Note: The official currency is euros.