“When I taught in culinary school, I saw a student picking up a box for jambalaya,” Bienvenu said. “He told me it could be ready in 10 minutes. I said, ‘You put that down. We don’t ever make anything from a box.’”
Born in St. Martinville, Louisiana, in the heart of what is known as Cajun Country, Bienvenu grew up in a large family, surrounded by talented cooks.
“I have 42 first cousins,” she said. “When we lived in town, everyone on our block was related. The Bienvenus are like the Smiths in Acadiana.”
Family get-togethers often involved big, one-pot seafood stews that would make enough to feed all 12 of her father’s brothers and sisters and their families. Two of Bienvenu’s favorite stews, Aunt Lois’s bouillabaisse and Catahoula court bouillon, are good for feeding a crowd and delightfully leisurely to make.
Similar in flavor, the bouillabaisse and the court bouillon are composed of mainly the same ingredients, fish and vegetables, and both require just one pot—preferably a cast-iron one. The bouillabaisse, an Acadian Creole spin-off of the classic version popular in Marseille, France, is more like a soup, while the court bouillon is more like a fish stew. Both can be served over rice and with fresh bread.
The main difference between the two recipes is in the method. The bouillabaisse, which is credited to Bienvenu’s aunt and godmother, consists of chunks of fish, cooked with some shrimp, some white wine, and vegetables. The court bouillon poaches a whole fish in a rich tomato-based sauce.
“The bouillabaisse was one of my father’s favorites,“ Bienvenu said. ”When we were watching a football game, my dad would put the bouillabaisse on and we weren’t allowed near the kitchen.” To ensure no one was tempted to peek inside and affect the cooking, her father would put a sign on the lid that read, “Do Not Open.”
“When cooking takes time, we can visit with each other. We can slow down,” the chef said.
Bienvenu said she remembers her father making the court bouillon over a wood fire at their family camp at Catahoula, where they spent most weekends during the summer.
“The best thing about this dish was its simplicity,” she said. “Nothing exotic. Family, good food, it was all right there.” The dish could be stretched with gravy to feed any additional family members that showed up.
Both recipes are cooked in layers and require about an hour to boil. Bienvenu said when it was time to eat, the recipes would be served in gumbo bowls, each with a rim thick enough to hold a slice of bread.
Bienvenu said she has tweaked her court bouillon by making it thicker. She can put the bread in and it doesn’t sink. But according to her, as long as you think it tastes good, there are no hard and fast rules.
“You ask anyone around here, ‘Who makes the best?’” she said. “And they will tell you it’s their momma, or their daddy, or whoever they grew up with.”
This past Easter, Bienvenu cooked court bouillon for her family: 52 people across three generations. And you can bet they all thought hers was the best.
Meet the Chef
Hometown: St. Martinville, LouisianaAunt Lois’s Bouillabaisse
The bouillabaisse of South Louisiana is somewhat different from the classic dish served in France. William Thackeray once complimented the Acadian-Creole version: “In New Orleans you can eat a bouillabaisse the likes of which was never eaten in Marseille or Paris.” In New Orleans, and in the land of the Acadians, everyone has their own version of this delectable dish. Each is different, yet each is superb.- 2 1/2 pounds fillets of firm white fish, such as trout, snapper, grouper, or redfish
- Salt and cayenne pepper, to taste
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter
- 3 large onions, coarsely chopped
- 2 large green bell peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped
- 2 celery ribs, coarsely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 (1-pound) cans whole tomatoes with their juice, broken into chunks
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
- 1 pound small shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 2 whole bay leaves
Heat the butter in a large, deep, heavy pot slowly over medium-low heat. Then, beginning with the fish, layer the ingredients (i.e., onions, green pepper, celery, garlic, tomatoes, then fish once more) until all are used. Lightly season each layer. Pour in the wine down the side of the pot.
Arrange the shrimp and bay leaves on top of the final layer. Cover and cook over a low fire for about 1 hour. People question this cooking time, but you’ll have to trust me on this. Restrain from peeking in the pot and do not stir the pot. Play a game of bourrée (a Cajun card game) or otherwise entertain your guests. It’s so important not to peek that Papa used to put a sign on the pot that read, “Don’t open the lid.”
Catahoula Court Bouillon
Papa’s version of court bouillon is a thick soup, much like stew, and can be made with either fresh or saltwater fish. If using the smaller freshwater fish, keep them whole; large saltwater fish can be cut into large chunks. The result will be a rich broth in which the fish has poached perfectly. Serve the bouillabaisse or court bouillon in deep bowls over steamed rice. Be sure to have plenty of hot French bread to sop up the juice.You may not have the night sounds of the swamp around you, but close your eyes for a minute and make believe. Imagine the sounds of fish jumping in the water, of crickets chirping in the night, and the crackling of a wood fire as it burns down. There, now take a piece of crunchy French bread and dip it into your bowl. That first bite makes you feel like you’re at the camp.
- 2/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 2/3 cup vegetable oil
- 2 medium-size onions, chopped
- 1 medium-size green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
- 2 celery ribs, chopped
- 3 cloves garlic, minced (optional)
- 1 (1-pound) can whole tomatoes, undrained and chopped
- 1 can Ro-Tel tomatoes (tomatoes packed with peppers—use the mild version)
- 1 quart warm fish stock or water
- 1 tablespoon salt
- 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 2 1/2 pounds fish, cleaned and dressed
- 1 bunch green onions (green part only), chopped
- 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
Add the fish stock or water, salt, and cayenne and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour. The mixture should be slightly thick. (If the mixture becomes too thick, add more stock or water.)
Add the fish, and cover and cook (do not stir) until the fish flakes easily with a fork, 10 to 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning if necessary, with salt and cayenne.
Add the green onions and parsley. Serve immediately in soup bowls with steamed rice and pass plenty of hot French bread around the table. (Note: I always have a bottle of hot sauce at the table in case guests want to add a little bit of heat.)
