Egypt From the Water
The temple complex at Karnak, whose construction began in the 19th century B.C., encompasses shrines and monuments built for a series of rulers. Walls are covered by hieroglyphics that remain as deeply etched and detailed as when they were carved. The colors of wall paintings are as bright as when artists applied them thousands of years ago.The temple at Luxor was a center for some of Egypt’s most powerful pharaohs. They included Ramses II, whose reign lasted 67 years, and Tutankhamen (“the boy king”), who died nine years after taking the throne.
These were among countless treasures that became accessible as the sleek ship on which my wife, Fyllis, and I were sailing made its way along the Nile River. We were passengers aboard the Nefertiti, a boat designed for the Overseas Adventure Travel tour company to ply the waters of one of the most famous waterways in the world.
The People of the Nile
One of the most appealing attractions of a Nile cruise is that the river passes close to a number of the must-see archaeological gems that have been attracting sightseers since ancient Greeks and Romans came to Egypt to admire its structural riches. In addition, while land-based day trips during our weeklong voyage took us to some of the most prized places, our time spent on the boat also provided introductions to equally fascinating aspects of the people, life, and culture of Egypt.Whether peering through the oversized glass door that led outside our comfortable cabin or seated on our private deck, we were able to observe people going about their daily lives. We passed by tiny towns of modest mud-brick and concrete houses, where women were grinding seeds into flour between stones as their ancestors did. We saw farmers working in fields using tools that might have been passed down for generations. We watched fishermen in tiny rowboats pulling in their catch and helmsmen steering feluccas, the traditional wooden sailboats used to ferry both goods and people.
Men sitting in the sun sipping tea and smoking a shisha (hookah) pipe watched us as we peered at them, while children playing at the river’s edge jumped with joy and called out greetings, which we returned. After washing clothes in the river water, a woman gathered them into a metal pan, balanced it on her head, and headed for home.
We also came to understand the importance of the Nile in the history, growth, and everyday life of the people who live along and around it. Without the river, there would be no fertile land in Egypt, a scarcity of food for its people, and little electricity to light their homes.