Hair conditioners fall into general categories according to what they do and the problems they solve. Using the wrong product for the specific condition of your hair will produce disappointing results. For example: If your hair is thin and fine, you are not going to be happy with an industrial-strength conditioner for thick, coarse, frizzy, or color-treated hair.
First, we need to demystify the term “conditioner.” It is a vague term that refers to a wide range of hair products designed to make hair more manageable and also treat common hair problems. Next, we need to know that conditioners fall into four general categories.
1. Moisturizers are concentrated with humectants, which are compounds that attract moisture into the hair and hold it there. If your hair is dry, brittle, and limp, you should consider a moisturizing conditioner like Pantene Pro-V Daily Moisture Renewal Hydrating Conditioner.
2. Reconstructors typically contain protein. Hair professionals, including mine, say that keratin protein is the best source because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair and has a low molecular weight. The main purpose of a reconstructor is to strengthen the hair.
If your hair is fine and thin, try a reconstructing conditioner like ApHogee Keratin Reconstructor. Use a reconstructor about once a month. When used more often, it can cause the hair to become hard and brittle, resulting in breakage and damage.
3. Acidifiers put acid on your hair, and that’s OK—it’s actually a good thing for hair. When a product carries a pH of 2.5 to 3.5, it is considered an acidifier. This pH will close the cuticle layer of the hair, resulting in shiny and bouncy hair. Acidifiers do not “weigh down” hair but rather create shine and add elasticity. The answer for fine, dry hair that has been damaged by chemicals or harsh environmental factors is a product like Joico K-PAK Reconstructor.
4. Detanglers almost always come as a spray-in product that you leave in—no rinsing required. The best option for its great performance and inexpensive price has a quirky name. Don’t let this discourage you from giving Mane N Tail Detangler a try. You'll love it.
Tips From a Pro
One of the responses to a past shampoo column came from hair professional C.C. Courville of Louisiana. In that the subject of her message was “Kudos on the shampoo article!” I sensed we had a “thrifty” connection, so I grabbed the opportunity to ask her professional opinion on conditioners:“My all-time favorite conditioning spray, which is a leave-in that you spray into clean, towel-dried hair, is a professional product called Biolage Daily Leave-In Tonic by Matrix. This spray-in, leave-in conditioner can be used daily.”
“Biolage also has a conditioning balm that can be used weekly. After shampooing, use a dime- to a quarter-sized amount, depending on the thickness of your hair. Work through from scalp to ends, even combing through if desired. Leave on for 5 to 20 minutes, then thoroughly rinse out.”
C.C.’s Rule of Thumb: Conditioning spray: Leave in. Balms or cream rinses: Always rinse out completely.
