Scallions in the Spotlight

Scallions cooked in butter are simple but transcendent. Victoria de la Maza

Scallions, or spring onions, are relatives of the onion, leek, shallot, and chives. Sharp and pungent when raw, and soft and sweet cooked, the allium is often used as a garnish and to add crunch and color to stir-fries, stews, and soups. With these recipes, though, I make scallions the star of the show.

Scallion pancakes are a classic dish that I often serve as an appetizer. Or, try it as a twist on pizza crust, topped with sour cream and smoked salmon.

Drop biscuits speckled with scallion, cheese, and sour cream are so easy to make and so satisfying to serve. I love them at tea time with jam and butter or instead of bread at the table to serve with soups, for extra flavor.

Finally, a dish of scallions cooked in butter, inspired by Edna Lewis’s classic Southern side, is the most wonderful way to taste scallions in all of their glory. This two-ingredient recipe is perfect as a quick side dish for salmon, roast chicken, or steaks.

In the market, look for scallions with firm, bright green leaves, unblemished stalks, and white bulbs with the roots attached. Bunches of scallions will keep for a week in a container filled with a couple inches of water.

Scallion Pancakes

Flaky, flavorful, and so fun to make, scallion pancakes need only a handful of ingredients and a bit of kneading, turning basic staples into a special treat.

Make sure the water is not just hot, but really boiling when it is added to the flour, and that you lightly brush the dough with oil between each go around to make layers and flakes.

Makes 4

• 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting the table
• 1 cup boiling water
• 2 cups thinly sliced scallions, both green and white parts
• 1/2 cup olive or canola oil
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

In a large bowl, add the flour and 3/4 of the boiling water. With a wooden spoon, mix the ingredients until they come together, adding a tablespoon of the remaining water at a time as needed.

Transfer the dough to a floured surface and knead a few times to form a smooth ball. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature or overnight in the fridge.

On a floured surface, divide the dough into 4 pieces. Working with one piece at a time, use a rolling pin to roll out the dough into a round, about 8 inches in diameter. Brush lightly with oil. Roll up the dough into a log, jelly roll-style, then coil the log on itself to make a spiral. Then, use the rolling pin to roll it out again. Brush again with oil and sprinkle with 1/4 of the scallions. Repeat the process of making the jelly roll, the spiral, and the rolling out. Do the same with the other 3 pieces.

In a skillet over medium-low heat, add the remaining oil. Add one pancake at a time and cook for 2 minutes each side, or until golden. Transfer to a plate and season with salt. Repeat with the other 3 pancakes. Slice each into 6 triangles to serve.

Scallions Sautéed With Butter

This recipe can be easily scaled as needed. Calculate about 6 scallions per serving.

Serves 4

• 4 bunches scallions (about 1/2 pound)
• 4 tablespoons European butter

Trim the scallions by removing the roots and the green leaves so they fit into a skillet without bending. Rinse them, but do not dry them (the water will help cook them).

In a skillet over medium heat, add the butter and cook until foamy. Add the scallions, give them a turn to coat with the butter, and cover. Cook for about 3 minutes, and then give them another stir and leave them in the pan for another 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

Scallion and Cheddar Drop Biscuits

Serves 8

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon brown sugar
• 1/2 cup (8 tablespoons) butter, melted, divided
• 4 scallions, thinly sliced, white and pale green parts only
• 1 1/2 cups sour cream
• 1 1/2 cups grated white cheddar cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

In a large bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and sugar. Add 6 tablespoons of the melted butter and mix well. Add the scallions, sour cream, and cheese and mix well to make a wet dough.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper and, using a tablespoon, drop 2 or 3 tablespoons of dough into 16 mounds, spacing at least 1 1/2 inches apart. Brush with remaining butter and bake for about 12 to 15 minutes until the tops are golden brown.