The view just kept getting better. Rumbling back from the dock, the austere little boat cut through the calm, gray waters, the seats inside holding a smattering of work-weary commuters, most of them entranced by their phones. Alone outside on the stern, I didn’t let the cool breeze cutting across the harbor drive me into the main cabin, and kept up hope that the uncertain skies above would hold, for at least the half-hour I would be on board.

An aerial view of Neutral Bay. ENeems/Shutterstock