On my last visit to Toledo, it seemed holier than ever: Dark El Greco clouds threatened overhead, stark against bright, clear horizons. Hail pelted the masses of people clogging the streets as they awaited the Good Friday procession.
A look back at my write-up reveals nothing but superlatives: Toledo’s street plan is the most confusing in Spain, its cathedral the most Gothic (and the most Spanish of all Gothic churches), and the cathedral’s altar the most stunning. Toledo was once home to Europe’s most powerful king, Charles V, and is papered with the vividly spiritual paintings of the city’s most famous artist, El Greco.
