I am barreling down the highway, hair blowing in the wind, as the gorgeous scenery of California’s Edna Valley blows by me—at 35 miles an hour!
That’s the official speed limit, or at least that’s what David Powell, the driver of the motorcycle to which my tandem sidecar is attached, tells me.
I nod and smile, but privately think he pushes it up to 45 miles an hour when we get to a particularly straight stretch of road. At any rate, I’m sure that to the cars whizzing past us, we are the literal definition of “easy riders.”
Sporting goggles and helmet, I am a passenger with Sidecar Tours on what has been described as “the world’s first two-person tandem sidecar experience.”
As if the ride isn’t thrilling enough (even at 35 mph), on our expedition we are tasting some of the Edna Valley’s best wines. Our two scheduled wineries—Saucelito Canyon Vineyard (famous for its Zinfandels) and Claiborne & Churchill Winery (known for producing Alsace-style wines which manage to be both fruity and dry)—make for palate-pleasing stops.
The sidecar speed limit isn’t the only thing that’s leisurely in San Luis Obispo County, with its 10 artisan beach communities (on this visit I am focusing on Avila Beach, Cambria and Cayucos).
“Slo-Cal,” the slogan for this Central Coast stretch of California’s iconic Highway 1, invites visitors to slow down and marvel at the grandeur around them.
On a previous trip to the Central Coast, I had spent time in the two best known beach towns, Morro Bay and Pismo Beach, and the inland wine mecca of Paso Robles, so I was curious to see what locals refer to as “the quieter side of the coast.”
Tucked away on a coastal cove of San Luis Obispo Bay, Avila Beach might be mistaken for a similarly secluded hamlet on the Maine Coast were it not for its palm trees. It even has the requisite red-and-white striped lighthouse.
My first stop here was the tasting room at Sinor-Lavallee Winery to sample winemaker Mike Sinor’s pinot noirs, pairing them with Morro Bay oysters.
The pinots were perfectly balanced, and the oysters more briny than the Gulf Coast version I am accustomed to.
It made for a pleasant introduction to the region, and I found myself agreeing with Mike’s philosophy that “time, place and people” are what make for a memorable experience.
And the oysters and wine, of course.
Avila Beach also has a magnificent place to stay even if it isn’t on the beach. Instead, Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort is in the middle of a forest of—what else?—sycamores.
Offering a peaceful and relaxing retreat, the resort manages to be both rustic and luxurious (the cabins, which are reached by crossing a bridge over a meandering creek) have amenities such as fireplaces and decks with hot tubs.
My favorite activity turned out to be soaking in the hot tub on my private deck while listening to a symphony of sighing sycamores.
Well, that and seeking out a table on the terrace of The Gardens of Avila Restaurant for a mouth-watering breakfast every morning.
Agri-Tourism Is Alive and Well
Over the next several days, I became an agri-tourist, exploring the Central Coast’s bounty of agricultural products.First up was an olive oil tasting at Tiber Canyon Ranch, located on a 50-acre grove of Tuscan olive trees which at one time had been home to the Tiber Oil Co.
Owner Chris Anderson likes to say, “We’re bringing a kinder, gentler oil to this part of the country.”
Indeed she is. Free tastings are available by appointment. I sampled three citrus-flavored oils: Meyer Lemon, Mandarin Tangerine and Yuzu (lemon, lime, tangerine and grapefruit).
When I commented on how mild they were, a smiling Chris responded, “our goal is a one-cough oil, not a three-cough one.”
Cheese took center stage on a visit to Stepladder Creamery, nestled in the Santa Lucia Mountains outside of Cambria. The creamery’s owners Michelle and Jack Rudolph make small-batch cheeses from the milk of their own herd of frisky LaMancha goats, and cow’s milk cheeses sourced from the dairy program at nearby California Polytechnic State University.
After making friends with the friendly (and occasionally rambunctious) goats, I sat down to a tasting that featured lip-smacking cheeses such as Passovino (a cow’s milk cheese soaked in wine) and Chevre (a creamy goat cheese best served with honey).
An afternoon in the charming town of Cambria with lunch at Linn’s, home of the Olallieberry Pie, showcased another Central Coast product.
In case you’re wondering what an olallieberry is, you’re in good company. Prior to tasting it, the best definition I could find was that it tastes “like a brambly raspberry and a soft ripe blackberry made a love child following a passionate tryst.”
If that doesn’t get you to try it, nothing will.
There was time for one more wine tasting before heading to Cayucos for my last night in Cali. This time it was at Stolo Family Vineyards, a couple of miles from downtown Cambria up Santa Rosa Creek Road.
This boutique winery on a nine-acre vineyard located less than three miles from the Pacific Ocean produces everything from chardonnay and sauvignon blanc to pinot noir and syrah, the result of the area’s ever-changing microclimates.
Cayucos, situated between Cambria to the north and Morro Bay to the south—and sitting between the Pacific Ocean and rolling ranch land—is often described as “the last of the California beach towns.”
Seemingly frozen in the 1950s, Cayucos is the perfect antidote to life in the fast lane.
Find out for yourself by checking into the Pacific Motel, a surviving relic of the roadside (or in this case, beachside) motel our parents and grandparents were so enamored with.
While the nostalgia remains, the original motel’s unremarkable features do not. Thanks to the efforts of Ryan Fortini, a contractor, and his interior decorator wife, Marisa, the Pacific Motel is now a smart beachside boutique just a five-minute walk from Cayucos State Beach.
Among its 20 units are five stand-alone bungalows, all featuring furnishings and décor that, while minimal, convey a feeling of warmth and comfort.
Be sure to check out the motel’s Speakeasy, the Salty Tiger, with its wine-based cocktail menu. It isn’t all that hard to find and doesn’t require a password to get in.
After a night or two at the Pacific Motel, you’ll never feel the same about today’s cookie-cutter interstate rest stops.
And after a few days experiencing “Slo-Cal” on the Central Coast, California Dreamin’ will be more than a song title.
