As we cruise toward our inevitable date with the Winter Solstice, fresh produce is starting to feel like a faded memory. The tomatoes are anemic, and the lettuce has jetlag. But the pomegranate harvest has just begun. And this ancient fruit can add a zest to your food that’s fresh as a daisy.
The bright red orbs dangle like Christmas tree ornaments from their bushy trees. Native to Central Asia, some historians believe them to be the originally sinful fruit of the biblical Tree of Knowledge. In modern times, pomegranate trees have adapted to the warm edges of temperate climates around the world, as they are tolerant to high heat and low precipitation, are easy to grow, and can produce huge crops. This adaptability, coupled with growing demand for the fruit, has caused a surge in pomegranate trees being planted. Pom orchards are replacing apple orchards in parts of India that are now too hot for apple growing.
Working With Pomegranates
A ripe pomegranate will feel heavy for its size, analogous to a ripe watermelon. Instead of being round and shiny, it should have leathery skin and sunken sides that accentuate the ridges of its hexagonal shape. In other words, it should look a tad old.Extracting the arils can be messy if your technique is off. But if you score the peel around the equator, pull the fruit in half, and tap gently, the seeds rush out like Black Friday shoppers storming the gates of Walmart.
This technique comes from Turkey, where a food writer named Robyn Eckhardt once sat down with a group of women, some pieces of plastic pipe, and 220 pounds of fresh pomegranates. They spent the day liberating pomegranate seeds, which they would use to make pomegranate molasses. She explained the process in an email.
Start by making a shallow cut all the way around, from pole to pole, following the ridges, trying not to slice any arils. Then pull it in half.
“Gently squeeze one pomegranate half, cut side down, over a wide deep bowl to loosen the seeds,” Eckhardt wrote. “Place it cut side down in your nondominant hand. Spread your fingers to create a ‘sieve’ through which the seeds can fall. With the handle of a wooden spoon or spatula, tap the pomegranate all over; dislodged seeds will fall into the bowl (the bits of bitter white membrane will remain in your hand). Continue tapping, turning the pomegranate in your hand, until most of the seeds are dislodged. If any white membrane has fallen into the bowl, pick it out.”
The fruit’s fridge life can be extended for months by wrapping them in paper towels and storing them in a paper bag at the bottom of the fridge where there isn’t much activity, explained my other pomegranate adviser, chef Ray Risho, an expert in Old World cuisine. You want to leave the wrapped pomegranates unbothered, with as few vibrations as possible.
“Like bottles of fine wine,” he explained, “the less the pomegranates are disturbed, the better they will keep.”
Pomegranate Hummus
My pomegranate hummus doesn’t taste sweet or look at all reddish. If not for the garnish, you wouldn’t even guess that it has pomegranate in it. Adding some arils to the blend allows us to skip the usual lemon juice, as the pomegranate juice provides all the acidity that the flavor needs. It’s a slick hack if you ever find yourself short on citrus juice.This recipe comes together fast. The only speed bump is opening up the pomegranate and dumping out the seeds. But now that you’re an expert on pom seed extraction, it shouldn’t slow you down too much.
These proportions make for a soupy, pourable hummus. I like it saucy so you can pour it on things such as meat or salad. But if that isn’t your style, omit the water from the bean can so it will be thicker. All of the proportions are negotiable. Blend it up, taste, adjust, and blend again.
- 1 16-ounce can garbanzo beans
- 1 tablespoon tahini paste
- 1 large clove garlic, chopped
- 1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for garnishing
- 2 tablespoons pomegranate arils, divided
- Salt to taste
