The Lifeblood of a Heartland

Wranglers push horses during early morning roundup. Maria Coulson

We escaped on horseback from the rest of the world at the CM Ranch, where prairie dog towns were the closest we came to congested civilization. The Shoshone tribe and frontiersman Kit Carson did the same when they rode across this little-changed land in an infant America.

Butch Cassidy and his bunch later maintained two hideouts near Dubois, Wyoming, which is six miles from the CM. Cassidy wrote in a letter about his short-lived, peaceful stay in and around the town in the early 1890s, “I am raising horses, which I think suits this country just fine.”

Charlie Moore agreed. Arriving in the area on the heels of the bank robbers, he established his CM Ranch in the remote region of the Rockies and saddled its first dudes on horseback in 1927.

Ranch, River, and Rockies

The CM Ranch is 75 miles east of Jackson Hole, making it an easy day trip to Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. Driving several minutes off U.S. Highway 287, we arrived at the CM along its paved country lane shaded by cottonwoods and aspen. A frisky colt frolicked in a lush green pasture while a 2-week-old foal nuzzled us through a wood rail fence.  

The 7,000-foot-elevation spread is snuggled in a valley oasis between sage-scented hillsides and rocky ridges at the base of the majestic snow-capped Wind River Range. The diversity of landscape makes the CM unique. “One day, you ride through the Dubois Badlands and feel like you’re somewhere in the southwest,” observed ranch manager Hunter Sullivan. “The next day, you’re on the top of a 10,000-foot mountain, and you get the feel of the true Rockies.”

A crystal clear, spring-fed fork of the Wind River runs through the center of the ranch. Guests can cast for brown, cutthroat, and rainbow trout or hire ranch fly fishing guide Sarah Lilly, 31, who has a winning way with children and a keen knowledge of the area’s streams and lakes. Given her vivacious nature, it is rumored she can charm the fish onto your hook.

The CM Ranch’s intimate one-week stay from June to mid-September is limited to 50 guests but extends to thousands of acres. It is among the best traditional dude ranches in the country, at an all-inclusive vacation price more affordable than a maddening-crowd theme park.

Wrangler Skylar Kiess checks on guest riders at approach to CM Ranch gateway. Maria Coulson

The authentic western atmosphere, delicious meals of prime rib and sizzling sirloin prepared to perfection, personal attention to vegan and special diet requests with creative options, and comfortable accommodations make it an ideal choice for a multigenerational family destination and indelible lifelong memories. After the kids are back in school, three adult-only weeks are offered.

Collegial Culture and Celebrity Chef

Three siblings bought the ranch in 1997, and one of the owners, Jay Kemmerer, with his wife, Karen, spent the week we were there in one of the three guesthouses. They helped make visitors from across the country and as far away as England feel welcome. “Guests talk about the magic of the ranch, and some break into tears when it’s time to leave,” Karen said, tearing up a little herself.

Managers and hosts Hunter and Mollie Sullivan, an attractive and endearing couple with a teenage son and young daughter, preserve a simpler and saner way of life for guests, who say they are drawn to the solitude and sublime beauty of the Wyoming frontier. 

CM managers and hosts Hunter and Molly Sullivan pose with son, Luke, 15, and daughter, Nora, 8. Their Miniature Australian Shepherd, Dally, is four years old. Davis Clem

“We have amenities that set us up a few notches from the typical traditional dude ranch such as a swimming pool and a masseuse,” the dark-bearded Hunter said with evident pride, “but the essence of the CM is to experience the West from the back of a horse.”

Transplants from Louisiana, their blend of southern and western hospitality feels like a warm embrace and brings a smile to your face. Taken together with the singular ranch adventure, it is what distinguishes the CM brand.

Grammy award nominee singer-songwriter Skip Ewing, who has had 15 singles climb the Billboard country charts, filled in as celebrity chef during the summer after his predecessor skedaddled. He and his wife, Linda, live nearby and are close friends with Hunter and Mollie, and couldn’t let them down in such straits. The Sullivans knew firsthand that Skip is an exquisite chef.

“I am here because I love them and love this ranch,” he said about his rushed return after a concert and horsemanship clinic in Nashville. “Hunter and Mollie bring a heart here that you don’t find in many other places.”

The blood that pulses through the veins of the CM Ranch is composed of the delightful personalities who work there. Servers in the dining room engaged in animated conversations with guests about their plans and the day’s activities. Wranglers joshed with them and one another at the saddle barn of the main corral. Their laughter mingled with the sounds of spurs as they walked across the wooden porch.  

“The CM works very hard to cultivate their culture within their crew and among the guests,” according to Bryce Albright, executive director of the Dude Ranchers’ Association (DRA). “Hunter and Mollie are the leading force here, and they make the CM feel like home to everyone. Being on many different ranches, I know that their culture with their crew members is rarely matched.”

Yesterday and Today

Days were filled with horseback riding, fly fishing, hiking, swimming, and mountain biking under bright blue skies and billowy white clouds. The last day centered on two popular dude contests—team cattle penning and a kids’ rodeo. 

Evening events included a cocktail party and a country-folk-singer performance at the ranch and a square dance and rip-roaring rodeo in Dubois. The closing cookout featured live western music and cowboy poetry presented against a chromatic backdrop of badland crags bathed in the golden light of the setting sun.

Wrangler rides through dust during a horse roundup at sunrise. Maria Coulson

A dozen rustic log cabins built nearly a century ago are conveniently located around the groomed grounds. Nicely appointed and well maintained, they have private baths and covered sitting porches. Our cabin was 40 feet from the river; its rhythmic sound lulled us to sleep. 

Before its conversion, the comfortably furnished Riverside communal building with an imposing river rock fireplace was the bathhouse for many years. “Guests lined up on the lawn in their bathrobes with a cocktail in their hand waiting their turn to take a shower,” Mollie said, a radiant smile animating her calm demeanor. “I can’t imagine that the water stayed hot for very long.” 

Wranglers and Dudes

Experienced wranglers match each dude’s mount to his or her riding ability. There is a supervised program for children, and opportunities to take to the trail as a family on the string of 100 hale and hardy horses. “Having a week-long stay, guests get to build skills and to connect with their horse,” according to the younger Lilly sister, outgoing but no-nonsense head wrangler Victoria, 28.

Wrangler Levi Moses assists at popular dude contest – team cattle penning. Maria Coulson

The personalized riding program extends to complimentary clinics in the sandy outdoor arena. The first day, Victoria instructed my wife Maria on riding techniques tailored to her. “It made all the difference in the world to my self-confidence on horseback and made me feel comfortable on more advanced rides,” Maria said.  

Hollywood-handsome wrangler Joseph Mowad, 18, could not imagine a better job. “We get paid to teach awesome people how to ride horses,” he said. “It’s just crazy!”

Wranglers stand by coral at the breakfast ride cookout: Victoria Lilly, 28; Hannah Blasdell, 17; Jami Brophy, 23; Skylar Keiss, 22; Levi Moses, 25: Taylor Heimbigner, 23; Joseph Mowad, 18; Nell Barbour, 24; and Sam Hubert, 24. Maria Coulson

Mountain Medicine

The trail rides vary in skill level from easy to challenging and range from a few hours to all day. They are kept to no more than eight guests, avoiding long nose-to-tail trains.

Our first ride was with recent Purdue University graduate Skylar Kiess. The brown-eyed blond was a first-year wrangler and sweetheart of the rodeo.

There is a gentle rhythm and a peaceful harmony that comes from the cradling motion in the saddle and the clip-clop of the horse’s hooves that, together, soothes the mind and caresses the soul. Stress melts like chocolate s’mores over a campfire.

Article author in front riding Haflinger, Nugget, on trail ride. Maria Coulson

Riders are immersed within a vast wilderness of changing landscapes that pass from cottonwood river bottoms to honey-colored grass plains. Narrow canyon draws carved through sheer candy-striped walls lead onto high-perched plateaus crisscrossed by fleet-footed deer, elk, antelope, and bighorn sheep.

Clad in leather chaps and a stylish Stetson, Joseph guided a small posse up a steep mountain track. My chestnut Haflinger, Nugget, meticulously picked his way along the switchbacks. At the ridge top, the ground bowed dramatically, revealing stunning views of the nicknamed Winds. Nugget let out a heavy whoosh of breath, as if he too was admiring the sight.

For intrepid dudes who hanker for a heavy dose of wilderness as their mountain medicine, an all-day ride summits 11,000-foot Whiskey Mountain. Saddle-savvy riders can also lope on the boundless plains.

Nugget was ready to bolt. His ears pricked; his muscles tensed. Moments later, I rode on the wind in kinship with him. It’s a thrill like few others, whether cowboy or city slicker.   

Relaxation and Camaraderie 

There is ample opportunity for relaxation and camaraderie with newfound friends. After getting back from an afternoon ride, the shaded cocktail and dining deck overlooking the river is inviting. You find yourself laughing with other guests you’ve known for a handful of minutes as though you’ve known them for years.

The tables are neatly set beneath the dining room’s wagon wheel chandeliers. Maria Coulson

“My wife Emily and I like having time to rest and listen to the river and have all our meals cooked for us,” Minnesotan Lyle Hamilton, 39, said, “and getting out in nature, whether it’s riding a horse or riding a bike or going for a hike.” The ranch has a hiking guide for treks to strings of lakes, waterfalls, fields of wildflowers, or even petroglyphs.

When you want to swim or soak sore muscles, there’s a nice size pool and new 12-person hot tub. “The views from up there on the ridge are incredible,” Hunter pointed out with earnest enthusiasm. “You can look over to the badlands or toward the Wind River Range.”

Pint-size Pals 

The CM Ranch is family friendly, with a passel of pint-size pals often playing on the large, manicured lawn in the middle of the guest area. The recreation barn provides crafts, games, and music.

“My kids love having the ability to go and do as they please,” Hannah Finch from Kentucky said of her four offspring ages six to 16. “They’re having a blast. Horseback riding has been a hit.

“I feel like the guests are at the forefront in every experience we’ve had. We will be back. I’m ready to book the same week next year.”

Saddled up and heading out of the main coral, five-year-old Charlie Pleasants flashes a brilliant cowgirl smile. Maria Coulson

Enriched Lives

About 70 percent of CM’s guests are repeat visitors, according to Hunter, who is also vice president of the DRA. There are 92 DRA ranches in the Western United States, of which nearly a third are in Wyoming.

You will not find the CM publicized in popular travel magazines, which primarily focus on large capacity and luxury resort ranches. Where you will find the CM is in the hearts of the ranch crew and the fortunate few who across generations have passed through—their spirits raised and their lives enriched.