Once upon a time in the West, Paso Robles was a sleepy little railroad town in central California midway on the Southern Pacific between Los Angeles and San Francisco. Freight cars rumbled through, and twice a day the spectacular orange, black, and silver steam locomotives known as the Coast Daylight would pull into the depot—one heading north, the other heading south.
In those early days, health-conscious tourists would arrive anxious to “take the waters” piped in from natural hot springs. Then the construction of U.S. Highway 101 signaled the arrival of the automobile and with it the auto court.
Today, Paso Robles is anything but sleepy. And the reason is grapes.
Where cattle once grazed on a thousand hills, miles and miles of vineyards now extend to the horizon and dot the canyon walls.
Paso turned out to be a wine growers’ paradise, where its unique combination of limestone-rich soil, scorching summer heat, and moisture driven inland from the coast produces some of the finest wines in California.
The downtown district, with its assortment of classic American Main Street architecture, is alive and bustling day and night with no fewer than 29 listed wine bars and tasting rooms. It’s safe to say that when you stroll the district, you’re never more than a few feet from the next delicious syrah, pinot noir, chardonnay, or crisp sauvignon blanc. And the beauty is that you don’t need a designated driver.
And then there’s Paso Robles’s latest attraction, Tin City. Described as “a unique industrial hub,” the complex of “tin” buildings was initially designed to house metal-working and auto-repair garages. Then wine growers, craft distillers, and brew masters discovered it.
As a result, it is now like an epicurean Disneyland that features more than 40 tasting rooms for wine, beer, spirits and ciders, artisanal cheeses, and signature pasta-making. There are tree-shaded spots for outdoor dining with live music as well as Paso’s answer to The French Laundry—Six Test Kitchen ($$$$), which offers a 12-course tasting menu that changes throughout each season with a wine pairing that features local and imported wines.
The restaurant has earned one Michelin star, and the Michelin Guide describes it as: “High-quality cooking, worth a stop! Tucked amidst the many Tin City Paso Robles buildings, look for the sign that says ‘SIX’ and you'll know you’ve arrived. Small and gleaming, the decor is comprised of a stunning wood counter facing a pristine kitchen, along with dark floors, charcoal-tinted walls, and pendant lights. A multicourse tasting menu is on the books with Fridays and Saturdays featuring an expanded menu highlighting the chef’s unique style and creative vision. Diners will be riveted from start to finish. A highly selective wine list brings small producers under the spotlight.”
The restaurant seats only 18 people, and well-in-advance reservations are a must.
Considerably more reasonable in price and also delectable is Etto’s, known for its fresh-made pastas and indoor-outdoor pasta bar. Another must-visit spot back in downtown is Finca—a casual restaurant that highlights Baja- and Sonora-style Mexican food with an emphasis on wood-grilled seafood. The grilled oysters in spicy chili butter are to die for, especially with a well-chilled bottle of grenache blanc.
And now for something completely different: Imagine you and perhaps a group of friends or family are settled in comfortably at your motel or vacation rental. You’re all in the mood for some delicious wine-tasting, but no one feels like getting into the car.
The answer is a private, brought-to-your-door tasting flight of Carmody McKnight wines personally overseen by the winery’s master vintner, Mark Elterman.
Designed for parties of between two and 20, you'll sample the vineyard’s Bordeaux-style wines and Tuscan-style olive oils while learning about Carmody McKnight’s history, including its founding owner, “Land of the Giants” television star Gary Conway, and his former Miss America wife, the charming Marian McKnight. Included in the tasting will be the winery’s latest creations: the “Land of the Giants Colossal Cabernet” and the “Forever Miss America” blends, where the purchase of each bottle directly benefits the college scholarships of the Miss America Foundation. Five days’ advance booking is required.
