From the understated Humphrey Bogart to the dashing Clark Gable, Old Hollywood’s leading men understood the debonair appeal of the three-piece suit. The look is timeless, with rules that can be tweaked depending on the situation.
Dressed To Impress
Nothing says, “I mean business” like a three-piece suit. Perfect for formal occasions, such as weddings and important business meetings, it works for any time a man wants to look his best. It can be dressed up for heading out on the town, from more formal blacks and dark blues all the way up to tuxedo level; or made more casual with a non-matching suit vest, jacket (consider a sports blazer!), or trousers. But always keep things fitted, never baggy.It Starts With the Fit
If you can’t get a custom-made suit, find a good tailor to assure properly flat-lying lapels and shoulders, the correct sleeve length on the jacket (shirt cuffs slightly showing), a handsome trouser break (cuffs just resting on the top of the shoe), and so on. The suit vest—worn buttoned-up except for the bottom button—should be slim-fitting, without pulling, and long enough to just cover the waist, with no dress shirt peeking through. Opt for high-quality fabrics—tweed, linen, and even gabardine, because these materials move with the body, instead of against it.Color Coded
The jacket, pants, and vest should match for formal events, even “daytime formal.” Darker colors are more elegant, while lighter colors are more relaxed. Contrasting shades within a color family, such as a charcoal suit with a gray vest, can add a subtle yet dignified pop.Finish With Flair
Cuff links add another level of elegance. An interesting necktie with a coordinating pocket square adds a splash of personality. Keep the shirts to neutral colors—white or pale blue—with black oxfords or loafers to finish the ensemble. While there were no cell phones in his day, we know that Clark Gable would never have allowed the lines of his suit to be ruined by a mobile phone bulge.This article was originally published in American Essence magazine.
