The ‘Forgotten Land’ of Laos: The Mysterious Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars, an ancient archaeological landscape in Xieng Khouang Province, Laos. nuwatphoto/Shutterstock

Laos became known as the “Forgotten Land” in the years following the Vietnam War. Located between its more popular neighbors—Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia—Laos has been relatively isolated from the West since the war ended and the communist Pathet Lao government took over in 1975.

However, the past decade has seen Laos open up to visitors, who discover a friendly people, beautiful scenery, and a simple lifestyle. The Lao people are some of the friendliest and most easy-going people anywhere. Visitors are hailed with the greeting, “Sabaidee” and a smile. And this is despite the suffering from the Vietnam War. Reminders from the war are still ever present, with more bomb craters per square foot than anywhere else on the planet. The Lao people have responded by turning the craters into fishponds and shell casings into flowerpots.

Living in Laos

Approximately 5 million people live in Laos, with three distinct groups defined by geography. There are the Lowland Lao, the Middle Lao, and the Hmong hill tribes in the north bordering Vietnam. Each group has a distinct dialect, keeping linguists busy.

The Hmong people originally migrated from China and live in the most remote northern areas of Laos, where roads and infrastructure are scarce. Some Americans are familiar with the Hmong from when they fought as America’s allies during the Vietnam War, and then were evacuated to the United States following the war to prevent reprisals.

In Laos, nearly 80 percent of the population live in rural villages, subsisting on what crops and livestock they raise. Most are too far from markets to sell their produce and meat. A typical meal would include grilled fish, rice, spicy sauces, cabbage, and greens. There also may be meat from the jungle creatures they hunt.

Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars, an ancient archaeological landscape in Xieng Khouang Province, Laos. Dmitry Chulov/Shutterstock

One of the most fascinating archeological sites is located near the city of Phonsavan, in Xieng Khouang Province. The site is known as the Plain of Jars. The stone jars are up to 3 meters high and are scattered over a plateau. They are estimated to be approximately 2,000 years old. Archeologists are mystified about how the jars got there and their purpose.

The Lao people have a popular legend that a southern Chinese king, Khoon Chuong, was responsible for the jars. The tale relates that the king and his army defeated the wicked rival ruler, Chao Angka. The king then decided to celebrate with a victory party and ordered the making of the huge stone jars to brew prodigious amounts of the local moonshine, Lao-Lao.

Archeologists actually believe that the jars were funeral urns. The larger the jar, the more important the person. The remains of the dead were placed in the jars and covered with a stone lid. When the body had decomposed, the skeletal remains were removed to a nearby cave for cremation.

Some theorists further speculate that the cave was hewn from rock during the same time period that the jars were made. The cave has several large holes in the roof, which may have acted as a chimney to allow smoke to escape, suggesting a crematorium. Alternatively, the cave may have been used as a kiln to fire the jars.

There are three jar sites that visitors may tour, all within easy driving distance from Phonsavan. The first site is the closest to the city, about six miles to the southwest. This site contains the largest jar, called Hai Cheaum, which is about 2 1/2 meters tall and weighs approximately six tons. Jock O'Tailan’s guidebook, “Footprint Laos,” states that, “The site looks as if a band of carousing giants had been suddenly interrupted, casting the jars across the plain in their hurry to leave.”

O'Tailan further notes, “Tools, bronze ornaments, ceramics, and other objects have been found in the jars, indicating that a civilized society was responsible for them, but no one has a clue which one, as the artifacts bear no relations to those left behind by other ancient Indochinese civilizations.”

During the Vietnam War and America’s “Secret War,” in Laos, the Plain of Jars was heavily bombed by U.S. artillery targeting communist Pathet Lao troops. Locals who lived through the war claim that at least four or five American B-52s bombed the region every day for five years. Thousands of bomb craters dot the landscape. Unexploded ordnance (UXO) remains a significant hazard. It’s highly advisable to remain on the walking paths cleared by the Mine Advisory Group when visiting the sites. Unfortunately, the war continues to claim victims due to farmers plowing up UXO, or children playing with bombs they discover.

The ‘Horizontal City’

The old city of Xieng Khouang was razed during the war, with not a single building left standing. Phonsavan was built in its place in the mid-1970s. Today, the air in the city is full of smoke from cookfires and forest-clearing. The dust is also ubiquitous.

Surrounding the town are large mountains, including Phou Bia, one of the highest peaks in Laos. The mountains provide some beautiful landscapes in contrast to the city. In Phonsavan, the best hotel is the Vansana. The Nisha serves great Indian food, and Craters caters to American tastes.

O'Tailan sums up Laos with his description, “Satisfying all the romantic images of perfumed frangipani trees, saffron-robed monks, rusty old bicycles and golden temples, all set among a rich tapestry of tropical river islands, ethnic minority villages, cascading waterfalls and vivid green rice paddies, and bound together by the mighty Mekong River, the country’s lifeline.”

Fortunately for the visitor, the beauty of Laos has been preserved, and its gradual development hasn’t been at the expense of its culture and unique personality. For those seeking a relaxed lifestyle, beautiful scenery, friendly people, and good food, Laos remains a hidden treasure.

The author visited Laos on a U.S. military mission to recover the remains of pilots who crashed there during the Vietnam War.