Ten million visitors came through Cancún in 2023, accounting for one in four tourists to Mexico that year. For a country three times the size of Texas, rich with culture, art, and nature, the figure is a perfect encapsulation of the problem with overtourism: people descending on one or two main points while dozens of splendid places remain largely under the radar.
As Mexico prepares for its high season—which spans from the winter holidays through spring break—it’s doing what it can to disperse crowds beyond Cancún. An airport opened earlier this year in Tulum, with flights from Dallas, Miami, and New York City now landing daily. Another airport, in Mérida, is in the final phases of an expansion set to double its domestic and international arrivals. And the long-anticipated (but highly contested) Maya Train, which inaugurated service in December and will connect destinations around five of the country’s eastern states, has just added stations in Chetumal and Bacalar to its growing route network.
The Seaside Secret
After a decade of government spending restored and repainted many of its colonial downtown facades and imposing fortified walls, Campeche is ready for its close-up. Making access easier is the new, $28.5 billion Maya Train, which stops right in the center of town, depositing travelers who’ve made the 300-mile, six-hour trip from Cancún to Campeche.
As it stands, most of the seaside capital’s tourists are “experienced travelers from Europe,” according to Sebastien Larmier, who owns and runs Narrativ, a collection of high-end rentals in town.
“But more people are coming in from the U.S. and Canada,“ he said. ”It’s a new phenomenon.”
He conceded that the train has come with its fair share of controversies and environmental concerns. (Among other things, its construction has razed large swaths of rainforest and endangered local populations of jaguars, pumas, ocelots, and armadillos.) But as a French native, Larmier said he’s seen firsthand how a train connection between two cities can transform the local economy.
“It will be life-changing for the small cities around the Yucatán Peninsula,” he said.
Make one of Narrativ’s luxury houses—such as Casa Japa, a four-bedroom 18th-century manor that opened in 2023—your home base for explorations around the city, including its four-mile Malecón (boardwalk) path, which hugs the coast and offers the best sunset views in town. Or try Hacienda Puerta Campeche, a grande dame hotel recently taken over by Six Senses Resorts & Spas.
A Magical Tulum Alternative
Tiny Bacalar has been a rising star since the Mexican government listed it as one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos, or Magic Towns, in 2006—a designation that recognizes spectacular features such as its namesake Lagoon of Seven Colors. In 2021 it received its first luxury eco-resort, an adults-only outpost of Habitas that surveys the brilliantly hued Lake Bacalar from its A-frame tented cabins. But it’s now, in 2024, that the town is becoming easier to visit, thanks to the new airport in Tulum that halves the nearly five-hour drive south from Cancún.Get to Bacalar’s cenotes and jungles before the town becomes as popular as its northern neighbors. The local swimming holes are some of the biggest in Mexico; they’re more like small lakes than the caves you’ll find farther up the riviera, with Cenote de la Bruja—the Witch’s Cenote—being a favorite for its deep midnight-blue waters.
Another Side of Baja
The party capital of Baja California Sur has always been Los Cabos, hands down—but the actual capital, La Paz, flies under the radar. For years it’s been seen as up-and-coming, yet it’s never fully arrived in terms of tourism. Perhaps that’s by design.While Los Cabos, on the very tip of Baja California, teems with giant resorts and cruise ships, La Paz opted not to expand its port, preventing cruise ships from docking there. But new restaurants and bars are opening: Pujol’s former chef de cuisine Alejandro Villagomez is cooking at his first solo spot, Nemi, where he’s using local produce and seafood to make beautifully composed plates. Sunrise/Sunset is a new juice bar that focuses on natural wines once afternoon and evening roll around. And Toto Frito (the name means “everything’s fried”) has developed quite the following for its sustainably sourced oyster po’boys and fish tacos—all served in a no-plastic-allowed dining room.
There is also now a great place to stay, courtesy of Mexico City-based Grupo Habita, which in 2021 opened the five-story Baja Club Hotel. Its 32 earthy rooms have access to a Miami-chic pool and rooftop bar with Sea of Cortez views.
The San Miguel Swap
If ultramodern Mexico City is the obvious choice for an urbanite south of the border, San Miguel de Allende is its artsy, historic pairing: a colonial city just south of the capital, with character and crowds to spare. For similar charms with less notoriety, try Puebla. It’s actually closer to the capital—80 miles (131 kilometers) on smooth highways instead of 170. It’s also bigger (it’s the fourth-largest city in Mexico), yet it still feels less crowded with tourists and is absolutely bursting with art. Glazed Talavera tiles grace most of the buildings, including the palatial Banyan Tree hotel in the center of town, and you can buy tableware made from the same brightly colored red clay all over the city.There are fresh reasons to go, including a burgeoning wine scene that benefits from wide swaths of fertile ground around the Popocatépetl volcano, some 40 miles west of the city limits. While many vineyards are still too new to visit, there are exceptions such as Entreerres, where you can pair pinot noir and grenache with generous cheese and charcuterie platters on a pretty terrace facing the active, smoky peak.
That same soil is what lends poblano chiles—traditionally from Puebla—the peppery flavor that characterizes the most famous local dish, chiles en nogada, according to Zach Rabinor, founder of the luxury travel outfit Journey Mexico.
“There is excitement and hope that the same unique soil that makes Puebla’s chiles so special will also contribute to unique and excellent wine,” he said.
Ironically, one of the city’s oldest features—a series of 500-year-old secret tunnels—is also among its newest attractions, having been discovered in 2016. Guests of the Banyan Tree Puebla hotel have prime access, as one tunnel leads straight to its garden.
