Spectacular Borealis: A Deeper Look at the Northern Lights

The Northern lights over Svolvar, Norway. Courtesy of Hurtigruten

It was a night I’ll never forget. Sailing south along the fjords of Norway on a Hurtigruten ship, we had spent the better part of a week chasing the light—with no success at all. On the last evening of the voyage, guides on board lowered expectations. While the skies might indeed be active, the big snowstorm rolling in would completely obscure any visibility. So, they said, don’t expect to see the aurora borealis.

But hope is a funny thing. Even with such a doubtful forecast, it still resides and endures, right there, in the back of your mind. And so I added my name to a list of people willing to be awakened if the skies lit up, no matter what the hour. The announcement would come through the cabin’s phone.

Packing my suitcase in my stage room for an early flight on disembarkation day, I wore nothing but a pair of basketball shorts and a flimsy t-shirt. A voice spoke through the phone—the lights had been spotted. Come quick. With this weather, they won’t last long.

Slipping a pair of boat shoes on my bare feet, I hastily threw on the first jacket I could lay my hands on. Hustling to the open decks, the chill of a winter’s late night hit me first, soon followed by total and utter awe.

Courtesy of Hurtigruten

The sky was alive. It shimmered, and glimmered. Sometimes in pulsating waves; other times, in strands and tendrils like the stroke of a painter’s brush. It ebbed and flowed in vibrancy and strength. In this case, it was made even more spectacular, set against the twinkling lights of a sleeping little town on the shore off the port side.

A few minutes later, the show was over. The forecast had indeed been correct and the predicted snowstorm arrived, turning the Norwegian night to white in the span of a moment. Arriving on a subarctic wind, the flakes blew in so fast that, to me, it felt like a curtain closing on the most spectacular performance that nature has to offer.

The Science Behind the Northern Lights

No matter how much you prepare for them, it must be said: You’ve never, ever seen anything like the northern lights. The aurora borealis remain one of the world’s most sought-after natural phenomena. And rightly so: They are as magnificent as they can be elusive.

That night on the fjords, many years ago, was the first time I saw them. Since then, I’ve had the honor and privilege to experience the northern lights perhaps a dozen more times. And in each case, the excitement always remains anew.

As winter begins to close in on higher latitudes, there’s good news. The sun will reach the peak of an 11-year solar cycle in 2025—its “solar maximum.” This means that, as a reward for enduring the cold, those hardy souls living in places like New York and Chicago will have an increased chance of witnessing this wonder.

But what causes this strange phenomenon, exactly? The explanation is a little less than magic, but still fascinating. Particles charged by the sun and carried by solar winds enter the earth’s upper atmosphere over magnetic fields (which protect us) at northern latitudes. When they interact with oxygen and nitrogen, these collisions create flashes of beautiful light. During a solar storm—sometimes explained as the sun sneezing or burping—the auroras really get going.

A common misconception is that the northern lights are seasonal. They’re actually not. They’re most commonly spotted by those up in the Far North, but only during the winter. The region’s 24-hour daylight during the summer makes it impossible to see them during that season.

A Sign of Luck and Fortune

Legends about the aurora borealis are manifold. For example, the Japanese believe that if they conceive a child under them, that offspring will live a lucky life, endowed with not only intelligence, but also good looks. I first heard this on a visit to Churchill, a small community in northern Manitoba.

Set on the shores of Hudson Bay, directly on the migration route of the world’s largest land-based carnivores, Churchill is the polar bear capital of the world. On one visit, a rough-and-ready guide took me for a nature hike. As is common practice in Churchill, he carried a rifle to protect against a chance encounter with the bears. For him, it doubled as a pointer as he highlighted the subarctic vegetation along the way. (We did meet up with a polar bear on the hike, although at a distance.)

In the winter, he noted, he had a side gig shuttling Japanese couples out to a few disused Cold War era domes. They were outfitted with everything you’d need for a romantic encounter. “I drop them off, and just wait with a newspaper until they’re ready to head back to town,” he explained.

Unforgettable Memories

Perhaps my most memorable encounter with the northern lights was seeing them on a trip to the Swedish Arctic with my father. Riding out on a big wooden sled pulled by happy dogs, we reached a cracking fire, set amidst the snow. Our guide served warm lingonberry juice.

We were snug in our full-length insulated suits. The sky was dancing with so much life, and the solar winds were burping and blowing. It’s a show that’s never the same and has no equal—splendid and brilliant and glorious. Certainly, it was another night I’ll never forget.

3 Tips for Photographing the Northern Lights

Nighttime photography is very tough. But when you see the aurora borealis, you need a memento to remember it. Here are three tips for capturing an image that you’ll treasure for a lifetime.

Make It Stable

Think about bringing a tripod, even for your phone. Just the slightest amount of movement can produce a blurry image.

Go Wide

If you’re using a DSLR, a wide-angle lens will help you capture the immensity of that bright night sky.

Choose the Right App

Let’s face it—most of us will be using a phone for this. Apps can help. For an iPhone, NightCap Camera is a good one.