‘Picked: An Apple Trail’ Celebrates Pennsylvania’s Deep Roots to America’s Favorite Fruit

‘Picked: An Apple Trail’ Celebrates Pennsylvania’s Deep Roots to America’s Favorite Fruit
Tom Davis, 83, hauls apples to his antique press to make cider at Sally's Cider Press in Harmony, Pa., on Oct. 6, 2022. Courtesy of Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS
Tribune News Service
Updated:
By Rory Murphy
From Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

PITTSBURGH–When it comes to apples, only a handful of states do it better than Pennsylvania.

Last year alone, the commonwealth produced a whopping 556 million pounds of fruit in thousands of orchards dedicated to some 100 varieties ranging from heirloom favorites, including Golden Delicious and Northern Spy, to newer cultivars such as the Honeycrisp, a crisp, modern variety developed by the University of Minnesota for cold-climate growers.

Around a third of the harvest will end up at farmers markets and grocery stores, which means the typical Pittsburgher should have no trouble keeping the doctor away with the “apple a day” prescribed for good health. Everything else gets processed for applesauce or packaged slices, or pressed into juice or cider.

So, when the Pennsylvania Tourism Office decided to build upon its runaway hit of an ice cream trail with four additional culinary trails tied to the state’s unique food culture, well, of course the humble apple was quickly picked to be among the distinctive foods featured.

As the office’s Executive Director Michael Chapaloney noted, “We’re the fourth-largest producer in the country for apples, so we knew we had something to work with.”

The self-guided Picked: An Apple Trail launched in September 2021, with nearly 60 stops cultivated in partnership with Chatham University and food historian Mary Miller. Organized by four regions, the suggested itineraries include everything from cideries, distilleries, and orchards, to restaurants, wineries, inns, farm markets, and even the occasional brewery, spread across the state’s 67 apple-producing counties.

“We really wanted to connect back to the heritage and history and strength of Pennsylvania,” Chapaloney said. And for that, “apples are a natural.”

When you plan a trip for someone, they tend to really enjoy following along, he adds—especially if it’s an accessible trail that invites everyone to explore with lots of variety. It can’t hurt that Pittsburgh native and HGTV star Steve Ford is helping to spread the word through a new series on the Pennsylvania TV channel on Apple TV called “Stuffed With Steve Ford.” It launched in August.

With 14 stops on the travel plan from Carnegie to Erie, the Pittsburgh and Pennsylvania’s Great Lakes Region trail certainly takes stock of all the ways that apples can be consumed, with family-owned orchards such as sixth-generation Apple Castle in New Wilmington and decades-old Norman’s Orchard in Frazer, and old-school fruit presses such as Sally’s Cider Press in Butler County’s Lancaster Township near Harmony.

Sally’s is only open to the public Saturdays through fall, but it’s a terrific place to get a firsthand look at the old-fashioned way some local farmers markets and individuals turn their bushels of apples into freshly pressed cider.

A former educator at Freedom Area School District, owner Tom Davis has been working the antique apple press on Route 19 for decades. He purchased the now century-old press way back in 1976 when he was working part time at the sawmill, which still stands behind the barnlike structure that houses the operation. Sally’s is named for his wife, who for many years ran the operation with her sister.

Tom Davis, 83, poses in front of his antique press at Sally's Cider Press in Harmony, Pa., on Oct. 6, 2022. (Courtesy of Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS)
Tom Davis, 83, poses in front of his antique press at Sally's Cider Press in Harmony, Pa., on Oct. 6, 2022. Courtesy of Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS

It only takes about 10 minutes to turn the fruit into fresh cider and fill the pressing room with its sweet aroma. After being washed and loaded onto an elevator that ferries them up and over to a hammer mill, the apples are crushed—three or four bushels at a time. They’re then dumped onto burlap-covered wooden pallets that are stacked “about this high” on top of each other, says Davis, 83, gesturing a height of about 2 feet with his hands.

After being pressed with a hydraulic pump that squeezes the pallets together, the apple juice then drains into troughs beside the pallets and then flows into a tank below, after which it’s pumped upstairs via an ultraviolet (UV) light column to another tank for jugging.

Davis started treating his cider with UV light to kill harmful bacteria—instead of pasteurizing it—about 12 years ago, because he found it makes for a better-tasting cider.

“Heat reverts it back to apple juice,” he said.

Longtime customer Pete Beccari, who on a recent Thursday hauled some 500 pounds of four different kinds of apples from his 80-acre farm in Collier for processing, agrees that UV light treatment makes for a superior product.

“It doesn’t change the flavor,” he said. “I call it liquid apple instead of cider, because that’s what it is.”

The colorful mix of Golden and Red Delicious, Stayman, and Empire apples—deliberately chosen to make a “taste”—resulted in 74 half-gallons and 10 full gallons of hand-bottled cider for Beccari’s farm market on Thoms Run Road.

You can buy cider there by the quart or gallon, along with Davis’s apple butter and Amish-made cashew crunch.

And if you prefer your cider hard? Picked: An Apple Trail has something for you, too.

Travelers can (and should) celebrate Pennsylvanian apples as adult beverages at places such as McLaughlin Distillery in Sewickley Hills, Apis Mead and Winery in Carnegie, and Arsenal Cider House in Lawrenceville.

Threadbare Cider House and Meadery in Spring Garden, which celebrates the region’s apple bounty with fruited, specialty, and barrel-aged ciders made in small batches, is another suggested stop. This time of year, visitors can enjoy seasonal, apple-forward cocktails such as The Riveter, which pairs Wigle Pennsylvania bourbon, simple syrup, lemon juice, and Bouquet de Rose (hard) cider. It’s delicious.

Wherever you stop on the trail, it’s bound to create an appetite for the fruit that’s Johnny Appleseed’s legacy throughout Pennsylvania. To help you decide what to do with them, we dish up three easy recipes to put an apple-focused spin on breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

©2022 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.