Pasta al Sugo Finto Offers Tasty Alternative to Meat Sauce

Suga finto, “fake sauce,” is a meatless Tuscan ragù rooted in the tradition of cucina povera. Gretchen McKay/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/TNS

By Gretchen McKay From Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

We all pledge to eat a little healthier in the new year, which usually means getting more fruits, vegetables, and grains on the plate at dinnertime.

Yet, creating a meal where vegetables not only play a starring role, but actually whet one’s appetite can prove vexing for some home cooks.

This veggie-packed pasta dish with Tuscan roots is a flavorful step in the right direction.

Born out of peasant kitchens where meat was often beyond a family’s means, sugo finto—which translates to “fake sauce”—is testament to the cooks who had to be creative and inventive, using what they could afford and what was on hand.

As rich in flavor as a traditional meat sauce, this one is built using fresh mushrooms, garlic, tomato paste, and a good glug of inexpensive red wine. It also includes mirepoix—that magical mix of carrots, onions, and celery cooked in fat (here, olive oil) that sweetens and deepens the flavor of so many dishes.

In Tuscany and throughout Southern Italy, sugo finto is typically served over a fat, hand-rolled pasta called pici. I spooned it over homemade fettuccine and garnished the dish with lots (and lots) of grated Parmesan. I also added toasted bread crumbs tossed with parsley and grated Parmesan for extra crunch.

Pasta al Sugo Finto

PG tested

Serves 4-6.

For sauce

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 1/4 cup, divided
• 8 ounces baby bella mushrooms, diced
• Salt and pepper
• 2 or 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• 1 cup chopped white onion
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 (28-ounce) can tomato purée
• 1 pound fresh cooked fresh pasta
• Grated Parmesan, for serving

For topping

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup dry bread crumbs
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

In a large Dutch oven or heavy lidded pot, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, season generously with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 8-10 minutes. Add the garlic and Italian seasoning and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Add the remaining 1/4 cup oil to the pot. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, season generously with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook until fragrant, 1-2 minutes.

Return the mushroom mixture to the pot and stir in the red wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pan is almost dry, about 5 minutes. Add tomato purée and 1 cup of water used to swish out the can.

Bring the sauce to a bubble and reduce to a simmer over medium-low and cook for 30 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally.

Make toasted bread crumbs: While the pasta sauce simmers, heat oil in a medium pan over medium. Stir in the bread crumbs and salt and cook for 2 more minutes, until toasted. Remove from the heat and mix in the parsley and Parmesan with a fork or your fingers. Set aside to cool.

Next, cook the pasta in salted water according to package instructions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water.

Toss the cooked pasta in the sauce, adding pasta water as desired to thin the sauce and allow it to stick to the pasta. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (You also can simply spoon the sauce on top of bowls of cooked pasta.)

Divide the dressed pasta among warmed bowls. Top with toasted bread crumbs, if using, and pass the Parmesan.

Recipe adapted from nyt.com. Copyright 2025 PG Publishing Co. Visit at post-gazette.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

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