“Fish. Party. Repeat.” Those words, printed on a sign in a South Padre Island, Texas, restaurant, refer to two of the most popular pastimes there. SPI (as locals call it) and nearby Port Isabel also boast a long and inviting list of other things to see and do.
It didn’t take long after my wife, Fyllis, and I arrived to understand that this is a place of outstanding beaches, numerous land and water activities, and intriguing historical tidbits.
This is all well known to “winter Texans.” They are the people, primarily from the Midwest, who spend several winter months soaking up the sun and fun in those twin towns nestled along the Gulf of Mexico at the Lone Star State’s southern extremity.
At first glance, the two communities present the atmosphere of many beachfront locations. Hotels, restaurants, and souvenir shops abound. Colorful golf carts are a popular mode of transportation, and the favored attire gives new meaning to the words “casual clothing.”
These are among the attractions that draw visitors and keep them returning year after year. Much more awaits those who find their way to this inviting destination within a seashell’s throw of Mexico. This is a fitting image because the beaches on South Padre Island have won well-deserved accolades, and the proximity of Mexico has exerted a strong influence on the local culture.
After the Spanish exploration period, when the area was under that country’s domain, it was owned by Mexico and then the Republic of Texas before becoming part of the United States. Visitors soon learn why the destination is included on some “best beaches” lists and why it’s a magnet for people who like to fish. The waters are so productive that one charter boat captain advertises “No fish—no charge.”
The A (antiquing) to Z (ziplining) list of other activities includes many that are water-related. They range from kayaking and canoeing, snorkeling, and sailing to speeding along on a Jet Ski and loping along a beach on horseback. Birding also attracts its fans. At the South Padre Island Birding, Nature Center, and Alligator Sanctuary, we spotted some of the 350-plus species of high-flyers and low-waders that reside here or migrate through. Some have colorful names, such as marbled godwit and semipalmated plover.
Another expedition took us on a dolphin-watching cruise in Laguna Madre Bay. Captain Bob pointed out the first prey as soon as we left the marina. Whenever someone saw a telltale fin—or better yet, a dolphin leaping out of the water—a collective “ooh, aah” echoed among the passengers.
Adding to the enjoyment was inspecting at close hand specimens that a net had dredged up from the bay floor. Among the sea life we examined were a stingray, several small fish, and shrimp. It’s no surprise that shrimp were among our catch because those crustaceans have been the source of an industry that has thrived in the area since the middle of the 19th century. Texas consistently ranks among the top three producing states, along with Alaska and Louisiana.
Trawlers typically drag their nets along the bottom of the Gulf of Mexico for as long as three weeks at a time, working at night because the shrimp are nocturnal. When they’re not at sea, the boats can be spotted docked at several locations in Port Isabel.
Also not surprising are the variations on shrimp dishes that are served at local restaurants. They augment the American, Mexican, and Texas-based cuisine included on many menus. Preparations using shrimp that were new to Fyllis and me included tacos, quesadillas, chipotles, omelets, Benedicts, and BLT sandwiches.
The story of shrimping is among many told at the Port Isabel Historical Museum. Exhibits there portray the area’s past, beginning with the Spanish exploration period and moving through the arrival of Native Americans, the Civil War, and colorful tales of local folklore. The museum is housed in a historic building (1899) that in the past served as a dry-goods store, post office, and railroad station.
Port Isabel also is home to a lighthouse completed in 1853 to guide ships bringing supplies to U.S. military posts. During the U.S. Civil War, it was used as an observation tower by both forces. Of 16 lighthouses along the Texas coastline, this is the only one that’s open to visitors, and those who climb to the top are rewarded with dramatic 360-degree views of the surroundings.
Memories of the Civil War and the U.S.-Mexican War (1846–1848) are kept alive at the Walk of Generals, which surrounds the lighthouse. It consists of 21 medallions set in sidewalks to commemorate military men who served and fought in the area during those conflicts. Among those honored whose emblems I spotted are Gen. Thomas (Stonewall) Jackson, Gen. Robert E. Lee, Gen. Ulysses S. Grant, and Gen. Zachary Taylor (12th president of the United States).
Both Port Isabel and SPI also lay claim to being art-appreciation destinations in a nontraditional way. Any flat surface inside or outside a shop, restaurant, home, or other building can serve as a palette for paintings, usually depicting sea life.
