After strolling along a lovely stretch of Atlantic Ocean beach that fronts Cape May, New Jersey, my wife, Fyllis, and I decided to check out some of the town’s other attractions. We dropped by the towering lighthouse, which has beamed warnings to ships since 1859.
We visited a World War II lookout tower that was built to help aim coastal artillery at German submarines that ventured too close to shore. We strolled through Cape May Point State Park, an area of dunes, marsh, and forest that is a resting place for sea and shore birds during their annual migration.
All of this was before we immersed ourselves in the primary appeal that brings many visitors to Cape May. That is its renowned collection of Victorian architecture that draws most people to this tiny community (population about 2,700).
Native Americans were there when English explorer Henry Hudson showed up in 1609. He was followed by Cornelis Mey, a Dutch adventurer, captain, and fur trader who, during 1611-1614, charted the region and for whom the town is named. By 1630 the Dutch West India Company purchased land from the Native Americans and established a fishing and whaling settlement.
Fast-forward about two centuries and Cape May began to adopt its role as a popular summer destination, due to convenient water transportation by sloops and steamboats from nearby cities. Private wooden cottages and hotels were constructed. The town was promoted as America’s first seaside resort.
When a massive fire destroyed much of the town in 1878, it was rebuilt as the architectural treasure it is today. Because the ornate Victorian style was in vogue at the time, many structures exhibit that vernacular, with intricate detailing, gable roofs, round towers, and other wild and whimsical adornments. Deep, bold colors add the finishing touch.
As a result of this concentration of Victorian architecture (more than 600 beautifully preserved buildings), Cape May is designated as a National Historic Landmark. It’s the only town in the country to be entirely recognized as a National Historic District.
Fyllis and I spent much time meandering through this eclectic collection of fun and fanciful homes, shops, and B&Bs. We oohed and aahed at the so-called Painted Ladies, a group of buildings that even within the colorful setting stand out because of their elaborate, playful nature.
Along with our introduction to the major reason why many people visit Cape May, we took time to explore others. The historic Emlen Physick Estate, a magnificent 18-room mansion that was built in 1879, contains original furnishings and is Cape May’s only Victorian house museum. The family kept cows on the property, and when I asked to visit the men’s room, I was directed to what originally served as a milking shed.
A personal favorite was the modest but moving Harriet Tubman Museum, which shares stories of slavery in New Jersey, abolitionist activism, and of Tubman herself. She lived for some time in Cape May, working in hotels and as a family cook to help fund her missions to guide enslaved people to freedom in the North.
Exhibits include photos of Tubman and handwritten notes by William Still. He was an African American abolitionist who assisted hundreds of slaves to freedom and kept meticulous records about many of their escapes.
Those with a diversity of other interests also have much to explore and enjoy. We spotted flocks of migrating birds that show up each spring and fall and tested our palates at wineries, breweries, and distilleries.
When You Go
Cape May is chock-full of hotels, motels, inns, and Airbnbs, some located in Victorian buildings. The Virginia Hotel, where we stayed, combines a historic ambience with modern amenities. It was built in 1879 by ships’ carpenters, and many locals and visitors alike rate the hotel as “the place to be” in town. It’s one of several sister properties, each with its own appeals: www.capemayresorts.com.The best source of information for planning a visit to Cape May is MAC (Museums, Arts, Culture), a nonprofit organization that promotes preservation and education. Its numerous tours include specific historic sites, architecture, gardens and much more. A year-round schedule of festivals and events ranges from music and craft beverages to crafts and collectibles: www.capemaymac.org.
