ORLANDO, Fla.—In a state as developed as Florida, finding wild areas unmarred by human hands is becoming seemingly impossible—but it’s possible if one knows where to look.
The Loxahatchee River is a pristine gem, tucked just out of sight of South Florida’s sprawling coastal development. Beginning at Riverbend Park in Jupiter, the paddling trail portion of the river runs for 8.5 miles with a takeout option at Jonathan Dickinson State Park. The river eventually widens and winds past waterfront homes before meeting the Atlantic Ocean at Jupiter Inlet.
In 1985, this outstanding Florida river earned its status as a National Wild and Scenic River, which is a federal designation that recognizes outstanding natural, cultural and recreational values—and it’s the nation’s strongest form of protection for free-flowing rivers and streams.
The only other waterway in Florida with such a designation is the Wekiva River.
On a sunny and mild Tuesday in November, a group of fellow paddlers launched their kayaks while I hopped on my paddleboard at Riverbend Park, eager to explore the scenery ahead.
We started out from the Riverbend Park launch and meandered under small bridges. After passing underneath State Road 706, we found ourselves fully immersed in wild Floridian flora and fauna, with turtles sunning themselves on logs and cypress trees towering above our heads. This would also explain the river’s name, “Loxahatchee,” which the Seminole people used to describe the “river of turtles.”
Plenty of bird species, including blue herons, wood storks, egrets, osprey, ibis, and sandhill cranes, also call the river home.
It wasn’t long before we reached the first of two dams on the river. While it was possible for the kayakers to paddle over the Lainhart Dam, I dared not attempt it with my paddleboard and fin underneath. Conveniently, there are wooden boardwalks for portaging over the dam when conditions don’t allow for people to paddle over it.
After the dam, a portage (as of early November) over a large fallen tree required us to drag our vessels overtop. In the section to follow, we navigated twists and turns underneath a canopy of cypress, palm, and strangler fig trees. The scenery was breathtaking.
The Masten Dam, about two miles downstream from the launch, is a good turnaround point for out-and-back paddlers who plan to return to Riverbend Park. But the river’s scenery continues all the way from launch to takeout, so it’s worth attempting a point-to-point paddle and staging cars at each end if possible.
The portion of the river north of I-95 is designated as “wild” for 1.3 miles, representing the waterway’s most pristine and untouched portion. This stretch enters Jonathan Dickinson State Park and represents the best remaining example of a South Florida river swamp.
Trapper Nelson’s 1930s pioneer homestead makes for a great stop on the way to the takeout point within the state park. Get off the water for a few minutes to explore the former zoo and camp established by the “wildman of the Loxahatchee.” Visitors from around the world came to see the legendary trapper as he handled venomous snakes and wrestled alligators.
The final stretch of the river widens, leaving the possibility of windy conditions. As saltwater reaches the river in this area, the banks are lined by mangrove trees instead of the cypress trees that shelter paddlers for more than half of the miles.
If You Go
Launch: 9060 W Indiantown Road in Jupiter (free of charge)What to bring: Pack sunscreen, bug spray, and a first-aid kit in a dry bag, as the river is remote and services are limited once leaving the Riverbend Park area. Snacks and water will help for a full day on the water.
Pets: With alligators present along the river, it’s best to leave pets at home.
Pro tips: This river is best suited for intermediate or advanced paddlers. With many twists and turns and narrow sections, it would be tricky to navigate for beginners. Be sure to stop and check out the water levels at each dam before attempting to cross over. Be ready for several hours without access to amenities or services.
